Dumb newbie questions on DIY UPVC window installation

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Hi all,

This is for new-build, by the way, and I will be getting the work inspected afterwards.

I've measured up and bought a window already from a local company just as a trial, but I'm a bit surprised as it has no fixing holes.

Question #1
Where do the mounting holes go? I assume I have to drill them myself. I don't suppose there is some tab to remove and then I'll see a hole underneath, doesn't look like it.

Question #2
What's the best thing to wedge in to keep the frame from going out of true when I tighten the screws. I am guessing some blocks of wood, or would it be better to use mortar, and wait until it sets before 'tightening up'?

Question #3
The window opening isn't true, out by about 10mm at the bottom, should the supplied window sill fill the whole gap, or should I make the sill the same width as the window? what should I fill up the gaps with? The outer wall is just brickwork, and I'm trying to think what'll look best.

Question #4
Nobody wants to tell me which size bolts to use for the frame fixing (including the UPVC supplier!). Any guides about this? I've noticed that frame fixings have rawplugs the same length as the screws inside them but for UPVC fittings this doesn't make sense, as the frame width means the screw won't reach the 'grippy' part of the rawplug. Is it common practice to just cut the rawplug, or should I get a different type of frame fixing?

many thanks,
S.
 
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#1 Drill yourself once the window is in place, generally 100mm away from the corner welds on the vertical and into brick not a joint.

#2 Frame packers, little plastic shims of various thicknesses(colours), the frame manufacturer should have given you a selection really but you can buy them seperate for pennies.

#3 Cut the cill to fit in between the brickwork, allowing a little room for expansion, allow room for cill end caps as well, superglue these on before intstalling the cill. On big gaps i would use foam then cut of the excess then masking tape on the frame and wall, run down with your finger and peel the tape off, nice clean line.

#4 8x100 frame fixings, either 'fischer' or frame anchors. Do not drill the holes for these in the groved area where the beads clip into but further into the centre of the profile otherwise you'll distort the frame and the beads wont clip in or they'll foul the screw heads.

Anything else just ask ;)
 
Anything else just ask ;)

Thanks, that's really helpful. I've just realised, after looking more closely, that the plugs have a small lip round them to stop them going through the frame. The ones I have are 10x140, so I guess that's going to be OK.

Should they they go about like this?:

About these packers, any particular place they should go? Corners? Sides? Or maybe where the fixings go? Do they hold the frame in place while you're drilling it? Do you jam them in to make a tight fit, or are they just placed loosely?

I notice there's four rims round the outside of the frame, so should I push the packers in from the inside or from the outside?


thanks,
S.
 
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The 10x140's are a bit overkill but if thats what you got then go with em, drill in the centre where you are holding the plug, how far up or down is up to you but generally no closer than 100mm to the corners and prefrably in a brink not joint.

Put the packers where you think you will be drilling, they hold the frame only to a certain extent, if you force more in than you should you can easily bow the frame in so just enough to take the slack out.

Packers are usually pushed in from the outside because theres plaster on the inside, if you have unplastered reveals then you can push in from in or outside, your call that one, ideally right through and then just chop of the excess with an old chisel or putty/filling knife/scraper.
 
I fitted the unit in the pic I posted above, and it was more-or-less OK, although as luck would have it one of the screws snapped as I was tightening it. Think I'll stick with the Fischer fixings in future! :rolleyes:

But now I have a problem with another unit - it's got the glass built-in (no opening), so I imagine I need to remove the rubber bead to take out the glass. Any suggestions on what I can use to do that without making a nonsense of the window? Any tools I need to buy for this?

thanks a ton,

S.
 
If a new window then you should get away with a wide paper scraper to remove the beading(on the internal side i hope) Then remove the glazed unit. Fit making sure you put it the right way round. Sounds silly but it has been done.
 

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