E7 Wiring Question

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Hey guys,

I've got a sparky in doing a rewire this week, I was looking at the original boards that both seemed to be wired to the timer and then to the meter. I was under the impression that during the E7 hours then the main circuit would clock up on the low tariff as well as the storage heaters and then switch back afterwards.

My sparky followed the wires and informed me it was just the live.

I was hoping to run things like the washing machine and dishwasher from a regular socket on a timer so that they are running on the low tariff but now this seems impossible unless I have 2 sets of sockets by the appliances.

Is there a way around this?
 
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I'm not sure what he is talking about!
When the off peak kicks in the meter register only records on it's off-peak section. This records all electricity used in the house at that rate.

all the timeswitch does is
1/ control the meter to change the rates
2/Switches the off-peak heating on so you don't spend a fortune trying to use it at on-peak rates (it also does(did) helps balance the system load at night
 
I'm not sure what he is talking about!
When the off peak kicks in the meter register only records on it's off-peak section. This records all electricity used in the house at that rate.

all the timeswitch does is
1/ control the meter to change the rates
2/Switches the off-peak heating on so you don't spend a fortune trying to use it at on-peak rates (it also does(did) helps balance the system load at night

This was my original opinion!!! The place needed a rewire so I'm getting new fuseboards. I should have bloody done a test and ran something after midnight. Too late now the old boards are gone. Been so busy gutting the place I completely forgot...
 
Took a photo earlier. Wiring hasn't changed from what I can see; the fuse box on the left is the main circuit.

25ipttz.jpg
 
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What's that dodgy looking T&E from the Henley blocks?

Not to mention exposed live parts in the CU's...
 
I'll try.

The screw that fixes the cover to the termninal on the time clock and the fuse itself should be fitted with a seal that is put there by the DNO.

There should also be a similar one on the meter's termination cover.

The seals are put there to stop peaople setting up hydroponic gardens in their houses and nicking electricity for free. (Well it doesn't stop the bad men, but it does show the DNO that someone is being dishonest.)
Breaking the seal is not allowed under the terms of supply.

These seals seem to be missing. Perhaps due to some disturbance in the space time continuum or because of some other magical interference.

Is that clearer?
 
I'll try.

The screw that fixes the cover to the termninal on the time clock and the fuse itself should be fitted with a seal that is put there by the DNO.

There should also be a similar one on the meter's termination cover.

The seals are put there to stop peaople setting up hyrdoponic gardens in their houses and nicking electricity for free.

These seals seem to be missing. Perhaps due to some disturbance in the space time continuum or because of some other magical interference.

Is that clearer?

Being a DIY novice its better, but in relation to the topic it doesn't really help me.

It sounds like you're accusing me of something.

I might add I've had the house a week.
 
No, not accusing you.

Suggesting the spark has done this, but really the seals should be left intact. You should either fit an isolation switch or get the DNO to isolate, then have the board change then re-energise later on.
 
unfortunately i dont know should have taken a photo before been busy gutting etc.

spoke to my supplier and they said no way to find out who installed it :(
 
Anyway, as Westie said the way the timer works is what you want to be able to run your W/M etc overnight, assuming that either it has a timer, or you use a plug-in one (make sure it can take the load), and the machine has a mechanical start switch or can be interrupted and will restart when power is restored.
 
Anyway, as Westie said the way the timer works is what you want to be able to run your W/M etc overnight, assuming that either it has a timer, or you use a plug-in one (make sure it can take the load), and the machine has a mechanical start switch or can be interrupted and will restart when power is restored.

I'm running a test tonight by running something off the temporary socket after 12.30am to see which meter it clocks on.
 
are you saying that this "temporary socket" is connected directly to the cable that disappears off to the left of your picture?

If so, this isn't really safe.
 

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