E9 error on a WB R 35 HE Plus condenser.
UPDATE
I have found the cause of the E9 error.
The Heat Exchanger safety temp limiter is going open circuit when the Heat exchanger surface temperature near the sensor reaches 112 deg C
I have no idea if this is the correct trip temperature or if the sensor is faulty and therefore don't know if there is a fault that is causing this
The appliance hasn't been serviced since new (I know, very bad of me)
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The bolier is 8 years old
The symptom:
When running hot water on full flow (Bath tap fully opened) It shuts down after a few minutes and displays E9 error and the tap water then runs cold. I can reset the appliance and re run it. It will consistently error again
If the tap is turned down to a slower rate it doesn't error and I get a lovely hot bath
Having the CH on or off makes no difference
According to the manual, E9 is the Central Heating Safety Temperature limiter activating.
and the steps it advises I take are:
1) Check pressure
(The expansion vessel air pressure is 0.75 bar as per a tyre pressure gauge and the system pressure is okay according to the built in gauge)
I also emptied and then refilled the expansion vessel air bag
I also drained the refilled the boiler and bled the boiler (From what I can gather, this simply means opening the expansion vessel bleed nipple.
I also bled all the radiators
2)Check safety limiters.
..... a) (I temporarily removed the CH flow thermal cut out from its housing so it couldn't sense the CH flow temperature and ran the bath.)
..... b) (I checked the pipe surface temperature at the point where the Hot water NTC sensor is fitted (Same temp as hot water at tap outlet depending on flow rate of the bath tap. At full flow, bath tap fully open, 40 Deg C and at lower flow rate 60 deg C)
..... c) (Heat Exchanger safety temp limiter. Surface temperature at E9 error point is 112 Deg C (No idea what temperature this is supposed to trip at)))
3) Bleed appliance
The service manual doesn't actually state how to bleed the appliance, so I just and made sure the automatic vent on the expansion vessel was open. It was closed (Some air did come out but no water, is this correct ????).
I also bled the radiators, one of them needed badly bleeding (Upstairs bathroom towel radiator)
4) Check fuse on PCB
All 3 checked with a multimeter , not just visually.
5) Check Pump Operation. Don't know how to check it is working at its optimum rate, however it must be working, otherwise the water pressure would be abysmal right ??
SIDENOTE
Just in case this has any bearing on the issue
We have been constantly topping up the water via the fill hose. (Water dribbling out the PRV vent pipe).
At one point, I accidentally left the fill hose connected and On, then started the boiler up. As you can imagine, the pressure gauge went nuts on me for the 3 or 4 seconds it took me to realise what I had done.
I have since (When I eventually got round to it) stripped and cleaned the PRV and this has reduced the amount of topping up we need to do by quite a lot.
Anyone got any thoughts for this
PS. I am a Gas Safe service engineer, I have my boiler ticket, I just don't work on them (Cookers and gas fires) so have little if any experience on them. I thought i'd drop that info in, just incase you may be reluctant to give me any real guidance
UPDATE
I have found the cause of the E9 error.
The Heat Exchanger safety temp limiter is going open circuit when the Heat exchanger surface temperature near the sensor reaches 112 deg C
I have no idea if this is the correct trip temperature or if the sensor is faulty and therefore don't know if there is a fault that is causing this
The appliance hasn't been serviced since new (I know, very bad of me)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The bolier is 8 years old
The symptom:
When running hot water on full flow (Bath tap fully opened) It shuts down after a few minutes and displays E9 error and the tap water then runs cold. I can reset the appliance and re run it. It will consistently error again
If the tap is turned down to a slower rate it doesn't error and I get a lovely hot bath
Having the CH on or off makes no difference
According to the manual, E9 is the Central Heating Safety Temperature limiter activating.
and the steps it advises I take are:
1) Check pressure
(The expansion vessel air pressure is 0.75 bar as per a tyre pressure gauge and the system pressure is okay according to the built in gauge)
I also emptied and then refilled the expansion vessel air bag
I also drained the refilled the boiler and bled the boiler (From what I can gather, this simply means opening the expansion vessel bleed nipple.
I also bled all the radiators
2)Check safety limiters.
..... a) (I temporarily removed the CH flow thermal cut out from its housing so it couldn't sense the CH flow temperature and ran the bath.)
..... b) (I checked the pipe surface temperature at the point where the Hot water NTC sensor is fitted (Same temp as hot water at tap outlet depending on flow rate of the bath tap. At full flow, bath tap fully open, 40 Deg C and at lower flow rate 60 deg C)
..... c) (Heat Exchanger safety temp limiter. Surface temperature at E9 error point is 112 Deg C (No idea what temperature this is supposed to trip at)))
3) Bleed appliance
The service manual doesn't actually state how to bleed the appliance, so I just and made sure the automatic vent on the expansion vessel was open. It was closed (Some air did come out but no water, is this correct ????).
I also bled the radiators, one of them needed badly bleeding (Upstairs bathroom towel radiator)
4) Check fuse on PCB
All 3 checked with a multimeter , not just visually.
5) Check Pump Operation. Don't know how to check it is working at its optimum rate, however it must be working, otherwise the water pressure would be abysmal right ??
SIDENOTE
Just in case this has any bearing on the issue
We have been constantly topping up the water via the fill hose. (Water dribbling out the PRV vent pipe).
At one point, I accidentally left the fill hose connected and On, then started the boiler up. As you can imagine, the pressure gauge went nuts on me for the 3 or 4 seconds it took me to realise what I had done.
I have since (When I eventually got round to it) stripped and cleaned the PRV and this has reduced the amount of topping up we need to do by quite a lot.
Anyone got any thoughts for this
PS. I am a Gas Safe service engineer, I have my boiler ticket, I just don't work on them (Cookers and gas fires) so have little if any experience on them. I thought i'd drop that info in, just incase you may be reluctant to give me any real guidance
