earthing/ barthroom. wiring kitchen/ flood lights

[me2u]

hi all,

1) the old consumer unit has 10 mm earth cable which goes to the meter . as i am moving this should i just buy a longer 10mm earth cable. (tnc-s system)

2) i am using 6mm earthing cable for the bathroom . to earth together the bath , sink toilet etc but it i have wire it to a earth block which is then wire to the pull cord swicth the cable i have use to wire this section is only 1 mm is this ok? (earth block to pull cord swicth) ?

3) i have brought 6mm cable for the cooker is this ok?

4) i have three outside pir flood lights front /side and/ rear . i have use 2.5mm cable to run to the loft then put a junction box there which then spits off to the 3 locations in 2.5mm cable is this ok? from the rear flood light i have run a cable of 1.5mm to a bulkhead light . the power from here is then split intoa twoway switch one for the bulk head and 1 which then goes to outside lights fitted in decking. which is run in swa. hope all that make s sense . is this ok? also what size amp circuit breaker
should i use on the consumer unit ?


5) with the front pir fllood light i want to be able to use a switch which when turns on powers up the light but when switch off turns the light back into the auto mode where it comes on when movement is detected. any ideas how this could wired?

cheers

 

[gas4you]

Try posting in the electrics UK forum

Mods will probably transfer this over.

 

[Chri5]

Asking soooooooooo many questions at once is a PITA, please breakdown you enquires for a better response

hi all,

1) the old consumer unit has 10 mm earth cable which goes to the meter . as i am moving this should i just buy a longer 10mm earth cable. (tnc-s system)

10mm is required between MET and gas AND MET and water mains- see wiki for more details on bonding. The cable must be continuous without joints or breaks

2) i am using 6mm earthing cable for the bathroom . to earth together the bath , sink toilet etc but it i have wire it to a earth block which is then wire to the pull cord switch the cable i have use to wire this section is only 1 mm is this ok? (earth block to pull cord switch) ?

No way is that acceptable, the 6mm needs to be on to the light and shaver points, not via a 1mm link. Again see the wiki.

3) i have brought 6mm cable for the cooker is this ok?

Depends on the distance and voltage drop between CU and cooker, and also depends on the cookers load. Most supply 10mm and 40a isolation then it covers 95% of all cookers and ovens

4) i have three outside pir flood lights front /side and/ rear . i have use 2.5mm cable to run to the loft then put a junction box there which then splits off to the 3 locations in 2.5mm cable is this ok? from the rear flood light i have run a cable of 1.5mm to a bulkhead light . the power from here is then split into a two way switch one for the bulk head and 1 which then goes to outside lights fitted in decking. which is run in swa. hope all that make s sense . is this ok? also what size amp circuit breaker
should i use on the consumer unit ?

Breaker size will be the sum of the load in watts / 230v- I'd suggest a 10a unless each flood light is a massive 3000w unit

5) with the front pir fllood light i want to be able to use a switch which when turns on powers up the light but when switch off turns the light back into the auto mode where it comes on when movement is detected. any ideas how this could wired?

Most cheaper PIR lights come with the facility to off/on/off/on within 2 secs and the lights will stay on permanently or at least to daylight the next day.

Others have a 2nd live which manually switches the lights to permanent on. Check your operations guide and let us know what type of lights with PIR that you have.

It you have the off/on/off/on type then a standard 1 way switch will

a) power the lights to be on PIR or off
b) allow off/on/off/on switching to make them permanent