EARTHY Questions!

[mark76uk]

Hello Forum
I appreciate there are loads of info on earthing/bonding, but I can't find the specific answer to my questions;-

1. Do you have to 'bond' LPG installation, if yes how? Is is same as main gas!(10mm back to CU?)
2. Same question for OIL (heating) inlet?
3. My CU has EARTH connected via MAIN service (connected into Neutral block), no earth stake! Should I install earthing stake?
4. Currently changing current (antiquated!) CU for new to include RCCD, is current earth (via neutral) OK for this?

Hope you can help, this is all result of recent purchase of 'character' home ....keeps me busy though!

Many thanks.
Mark76

 

[plugwash]

you have a PME install (where earth and neutral come into the propertly together and seperate out at the intake)

this is a perfectly normal setup and should be left as it is

all metal pipes leving the equipotential zone must be main bonded with at least 10mm (many recs advise 16mm on pme)

currently it is normal practice to fit a split load board in domestic premises this has some positions covered by the rcd and some not (on the better brands the installer gets to choose how many on each side)

lights and alarms should definately be on the non-rcd side
"sockets that can feasibly supply equipment outside the equipotential zone" must be on the rcd side there is some question as to what this means but it is commonly interpreted as all easilly accessible downstiars sockets

it is desireable to have fridges and freezers on the non-rcd side but this involves putting in dedicated cuircuits for them so isn't generally done in domestic situations

everything else its up to you to decide which side to put it on and different sparkys will have very different opinions on the issue

 

[Millennium_Boy]

it is desireable to have fridges and freezers on the non-rcd side but this involves putting in dedicated cuircuits for them so isn't generally done in domestic situations

I agree that fridge and freezer should be on their own NON RCD circuits wired in 2.5mm cable off a 16a MCB. - not too difficult, as long as you use a FCU with indicator lamp as the outlet device, and NOT a socket outlet.

 

[plugwash]

it depends on how you interpret feasiblly supply equipment outisde the equipotential zone

are there any guidence notes on this?

i really can't see how a socket hidden behind an appliance and controlled by an above worktop switch can be counted as being able to feasisablly supply equipment outside the equipotential zone

apparenly wireing in appliances can cause problems with warranty maintinace guys because they are not trained/allowed to touch fixed wiring and they are required to megger appliances before doing any work on them

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Use a non-standard socket. It can no longer be "reasonably" expected to supply etc

 

[dingbat]

Or affix a warning label which states that the outlet is NOT protected by RCD and should not be used for equipment outside. Dymo yellow label tape is ideal for this purpose.