EcoTEC 824 Plus Water Pressure Problem

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Hi Guys, this is my first post, hoping you can give me some advice.

It's a problem with my Valiant EcoTEC 824 Plus boiler which is about 2.5 years old. I've had the problem for about 3 months and it's been getting gradually worse. It's now to the point where I have to intervene most days.

It's a two part problem that I'm sure are linked. Firstly the water pressure drops over time but I see no leeks. I've got a jug under the PRV at the moment to see if water is being pushed out there because of the 2nd issue, which is this...

I get F.75 errors every day or so. I used to get them every 3 weeks, then 2, then every week, and now 3 or 4 times a week. The unusual bit is the pressure on the analogue (the grey and red version) is right in the middle of the dark grey. If I press the "-" button to get the actual water pressure it reads 2.6bar. But I'll get an F.75 anyway.

If I top the boiler up and get the water pressure up to 2.7-2.8bar and the analogue bar closer to the red line, then it's happy and everything fires up as normal. Once the bolier has been on for a while, the water pressure on the digital reader starts alerting me that it is above 2.9bar, and the analogue one nudges over into the red.

As time has gone on, the operating water pressure range that the bolier is happy with seems to be getting nearer and nearer to the max.

Today as a kind of diagnostic I drained about 6 litres of water out of the nearest rad. Sure enough the analogue water pressure went all the way down to the bottom after I'd drained about 3-4 litres out. But the digital reader never went under 2.6bar even when the radiator was down to a trickle.

As I filled the water back up I stopped a few times and switched the boiler back on to try and find the lowest level on the analogue reader I could get the boiler to fire up with, and it was about half way around again.

I just don't get it, it's like the pressure in boiler is different to the analogue reader and the pressure in the radiators. Is the digital output (when I press the "-" button) telling me porkies, or is it something worse?

Many thanks
 
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They are different things reading th epressure.

You have a common fault that any competent boiler engineer engineer will understand.

Because it involves work inside the combustion area this is not a DIY job and you will need gas reg engineer.

Tony
 
Hi Tony,

Thanks for the reply. Do you know briefly what is needed to be done and/or any parts required. When I get the Gas Safe person to come I'd like to know that they aren't a cowboy and replace parts I dont need.
 
The part is small and black and costs about £25.

But it could probably just be cleaned with no parts being needed.

Tony
 
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The boiler has now just sprung a leak. I've traced it to the "diverter valve with by-pass" next to the pump acording to the manual.

Is it likely my other problems are linked to this?

Also is the 2.6bar that I'm getting a little high?
 
Should be about 1.5 Bar!

It may not leak in the diverter valve at the correct pressure!

Does not affect the original problem giving the f75 !

Tony
 
Oh that sucks two seperate faults!

Bonus is that to replace the leaking diverter valve the boiler needs draining and at which point the expansion vessel can be recharged and the water pressure sensor can be changed. That will fix the leak and sort the f75 fault.

TBH i wouldnt say that the above work would affect combustion.
 
Thanks guys. I'm a little confused to be honest. Is my original problem that the pressure gauges are faulty and these high readings are not really true, or that something else is bust and the boiler can now only work at high pressure, and the high pressure is causing/not helping the leak out of the diverter valve?

Anyone got any recommendations for a gas safe engineer in north london. The guy who fitted it seems to have gone awol and the last company I used couldnt diagnose a simple loose fan connection problem that I ended up fixing myself.
 

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