Effect of sink cut-out on strength wooden worktop?

[M4R5]

I've asked everywhere I can think of, and I still haven't got a straight answer on this, so I thought 'd ask here

I will have a solid wooden worktop, into which I plan to fit an Abode Tydal sink (single bowl). The sink requires a large cut-out, coming very close to the front and rear edges of the worktop. In fact there will only be 45mm of wood at the front and back of the sink for the whole length of the sink, which is about a metre. Everyone is telling me that this is fine...

The sink part of the Abode unit will fit within a cabinet, while the drainer will sit above the washing machine - not cabinet edge to support it.

The only way that I can make this work in my head is if the rigidity of the ceramic sink is used to support the wood, so they would need bolting together strategically.

Furthermore, without prior planning, I find it hard to believe the worktop wouldn't just snap when lifted.

I'd very much appreciate some advice on this for someone who is familiar with such scenarios.

Thank you in advance.

 

[big-all]

you support the worktop with zero weight on the cut out as in
with 2 people holding it each person holds the center off the solid bit on there side
i personally cut them in situ with great care moving to avout the cabinet underneath

 

[M4R5]

Ah ok. That makes sense.

What about when it's in place? The weight of the sink will be on the thin sections.

Thanks again

 

[Jasonb]

The sink will also be supported by the lips at each end, in effect you could remove the strips of wood front & back and the sink would stay there, they don't flex

J

 

[M4R5]

But with the drainer side over the washing machine, with no cabinet to support it, will that still work?

The order of things is End Panel, Washer, Sink Cabinet, and the the sink would span the washer and sink cabinet. Is that ok? I think it'll break.

Thanks

 

[M4R5]

Anyone else got any thoughts on this? I think I'll have to put rails in

 

[Deleted member 174758]

But with the drainer side over the washing machine, with no cabinet to support it, will that still work?

If you'd like to convince yourself go and get a piece of 2 x 2in PAR softwood (which will finish at 44 x 44mm approx) then plane or saw it down to 40 x 44mm, or about the same cross section as the supporting strips of your finished worktop. Plonk this piece of timber on a couple of bricks and then stand on it. It won't break. Honest. JasonB isn't having you on.......... And BTW your worktop is hardwood which is far harder and less flexible than pine.

 

[foxhole]

I fitted similar recently and due to it being close to the end of top needed extra strength, the porcelain sink on the drainer side did not need a full depth cut out, so, I only did that for the sink and used a router to take out the 12mm the drainer required.

 

[big-all]

The sink will also be supported by the lips at each end, in effect you could remove the strips of wood front & back and the sink would stay there, they don't flex

J

un like me jason who is prolific[ok reserved but very accurate] on many forums deserves more respect than me as his answers are 100% all the time
mines are honest and as accurate as i can get but the odd several pints can get in the way
it would be nice though iff jason can remember the odd mistake as i cant find any

 

[Jasonb]

The cutout for your sink is actually 490mm which will give you 55mm not 45mm of timber each side. Even allowing for the fact that you are likely to be using a staved worktop made up from short comb jointed lengths you will have 1.5 stave widths per side so the joints will overlap. This is stronget than if you cut to less than one stave width. I'm assumeing its a half decent quality top not a cheapie.

As J&N says if you take a strip of timber and support at its ends, remember the largest span will be across your appliance so 600mm you can jump about on that quite a bit before it will give way.

If you are really worried then a 2x1 batten along the back of the appliance space screwed to the wall will suport the back and a flat metal strip added to the inside edge of the cutout but you won't need either.

Jason

Ps look forward to your post on how to punch the hole through the ceramic sink

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Ps look forward to your post on how to punch the hole through the ceramic sink

Ooooh, that's cruel!!!!

 

[joinerjohn]

Ps look forward to your post on how to punch the hole through the ceramic sink

Must admit, that's the bit that still frightens me. Even with some of the composite sinks that have the knock out bit, my heart gets racing.

 

[lmkitchens]

That is why I invested in a nice 35mm grit edged holesaw Takes the worry out of it!

 

[Jasonb]

Yep I use the diamond coated holesaws for the same thing, no buttock clenching required.

J