Electric cooker wall socket

[lisandra]

I wondered if anyone could help. The indicator light on the wall socket started to go off so I had to keep flicking the switch and positioning it to stop the cooker going off. The light has gone off completely now and the cooker wont work. It is a double socket and the kettle is plugged in to the other socket and still works fine. I've had a little check and there is two red wires not connected. Do you know how much an electrician normally charges to check the wall socket and fix it. Thanks.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

have they come loose from the terminal then, do you have a photo?
May help in sorting it out for you.
Does this switch operate anything else other than the cooker?
You,ll have a load side and a supply side on your cooker switch plate both will have neutrals(black) and lives(red). Sounds like the Reds are out.
But unusual that both are out, so does the switch offer power to a fan or ignition for hob?

 

[GreenElectrics]

This needs sorting asap because if there is a loose connection then the cable will be arcing to try and make the connection. This will cause the cable to heat up and harden or melt the pvc insulation.

If it is a straight forward re-termination then it shouldn't be expensive, maybe £20-£30. If a new cooker control switch is required then an extra £10-£15(assuming it is a plain white plastic one) . But if the cables are burnt then it would depend on what needs to be done to make good to these.

Ask friends and family if they know someone local to you. (you cant beat a recommendation! and it is better than a pin in the yellow pages)

 

[Johnmelad502]

Are there also two black and two earth?

Sounds like the hob and oven may have been put in together.

 

[lisandra]

Thanks for you replies. The extractor fan and cooker are connected by the same wall socket. The cooker wont swich on but if you plug another appliance into the switch next to the cooker one it will work. When looking back I think there was just one of the red wires that was not connected and this wire is really short so seem impossilel that it was connected at all. I've a feeling the flick switch has gone for the cooker because the other part of the socket works. There are two black and 2 earth wires already connected. I got a quote for a replacement from an electrician £40 to come out then extra for parts.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I can only assume that if the socket is working, the incoming live in the supply terminal is connected okay, and the red that is loose, is the one that should be connected to the live load terminal and that is the cable connected to the cooker.
Think the switch will be fine.

Addition to original reply;
"It's a double socket" Just to confirm, does that mean the plate has two sockets on it, and the cooker is plugged in to one of these sockets, or that there is a single socket for say kettle use that is switched, and a single switch that operates the power to the cooker.
or is it a double socket that the cooker does not plug in to but the wiring continues to the cooker to offer it power?