Electrolux WashMach - soap disp leak and spins in wash cycle

[jmh1]

Hello everyone, hope you all had a good Christmas.

I've a reoccurring problem with my washing machine. My Electrolux EW1000 I keeps trying to spin right at the beginning of the wash cycle, after it takes the water in (not during), which is causing water pressure to build up and to flood up and out of the soap dispenser.

I've run hot washes with no detergent and run separate soda-crystal washes (95C) to clear it out, even a hot wash with limescale remover as I thought it was a blockage. I've checked the filter from the front of the machine and the basket was pretty clear.

It happened once about 3 months ago, then it seemed ok for a while. Then it did it again a couple of weeks ago - a few times after I had re-started it after taking all the (wet and soapy!) clothes out. It has now given up the ghost completely and does it on every programme. I've just run it on an empty spin cycle and that is fine, so I don't think it is the bearings etc.

Any help gratefully received - I've done some research and I think it could be a loose tachometer in motor (thread worn) or a bolt under the agitator. Without getting into the (built in!) machine and taking it apart I'm at a loss.

Thanks ever so much in anticipation, jmh.

 

[zipper]

The motor tacho is a likely culprit.
Remove the motor & check the tacho shaft magnet hasn't loosened. Measure the tacho coil resistance with a multimeter & check the motor plug/wiring is in order.

 

[jmh1]

Dear zipper, thanks for your help.

As it is a built in appliance, I was going to pull it out and go through the back. However, having undone the front inspection cover I can see (and reach) the tacho on the motor. I took a picture just incase I am barking up the wrong tree. A little unsure of how to proceed next, the tacho itself (which I am guessing is the end bit) doesn't look too easy to remove. I know that I need to check if the magnet is still attached - how is the best way to go about this?

Front of motor

• jmh1
• 8 Jan 2012
• 1

I'd really appreciate some more advice, I've not tried fixing washing machines before so this is new territory. Thanks, jmh.

 

[zipper]

The easiest way to go about this is to take off the rear cover & remove the motor. Take off the belt & motor plug. Remove the 4 motor bolts & tap the motor back & off its locating pegs. It only takes 10 mins. Once out you can check the motor & tacho on your kitchen table instead of busting your back & knuckles working upside down on the floor. Trace the tacho wires back to the motor plug & check the coil resistance (two different coils were fitted in these motors, one is 184 ohms & the other type is 500 ohms). If it is open circuit you need a new one.
The tacho coil body is press fitted in the non-drive endshield, usually you can lever it out but be a little careful. If you can't get it out dismantle the motor from the drive-end & check the magnet once the armature is out. BTW the commutator on your motor looks black so check the brushes at the same time. If they are badly worn change them out. If the magnet is tight & the coil resistance ok check the motor wiring from the plug back to the pcb. If the wiring is intact, tacho/magnet ok, & brushes ok then the pcb is the problem.

 

[jmh1]

Thanks, I guess this means pulling out the whole thing then. Stupid question - there sounds like there is still some water left in the machine. I've obviously had it on a drain cycle before I worked on it. I've checked the fluff filter and no water comes out - is there a lower drain point I should use? I am concerned that when I pull the machine out (it is very slightly elevated on boards by an inch), then water is going to come out. Also makes it heavier!

Not used a multimeter before to check resistance, so a trip to Maplin is in order first. I take it they are fairly self explanatory to use...? The mains plug is disconnected (as are both the hot and cold water taps).

Many thanks, jmh (learning lots!)

 

[zipper]

If you drained it & removed the filter there should be no water in the tub. If there is then the the sump hose is blocked, which may be contributing to the issue. Easy way to find out...pack some old towels in front of the filter housing (or replace the filter & open the emergency drain hose into a bucket) then tip 1/2 a pint of water in the drum. If it gushes out nothing is blocked & the drum is definitely empty. If it dribbles out then you got a sock or similar stuck in the sump hose

 

[jmh1]

Where is the emergency drain hose located? I've had a root around and can't see/feel anything.

 

[zipper]

Is there a black hose near the filter (with a white plug stuck in the end)?
All this stuff is explained in your user manual....

 

[jmh1]

Nope, user manual is rubbish, believe me I've already looked! Anyway, machine is now out. Only snag is that the back section wraps around the machine, so not easy to remove.

Thanks for your help so far....think I'll leave it till tomorrow now.

 

[zipper]

If there is a seam on the sides then the outer case is split Zanussi style...(still only takes 10 mins to get apart).
Post the PNC number on the door sticker before you start....should look something like this 914654513/01.

 

[jmh1]

Prod: 914880014 00 (serial 11600070).

Thanks

 

[jmh1]

Right. Got to motor. Can anyone tell me what the magnet looks like? I've take the tacho cap off and am looking inside onto the shaft. I can see a white plastic internal bit, with a ring shaped bit of metal around it. Is the ring the magnet? if so, it is firmly in place (as was the tachometer cap).

Hmmm. Someone else mentioned that if the cycle started normally then went into an un-demanded spin, then it could be the electronic board instead?

help!

 

[captaincaveman1]

I agree with zipper the tacho is most likely failing theres no emergency drain hose on this model though .

 

[jmh1]

Checked that the magnet was indeed in place, but noticed that it was a little loose. Tightened it finger tight. After putting everything back together again I thought I'd run the machine, and amazingly, I seem to have fixed it. I'm really surprised that the difference of a tight magnet to a loose one makes a difference, but it obviously does. I took lots of photos to help anyone else tackling the same problem. A big thank you to zipper who talked me through the process

Magnet around plastic centre

• jmh1
• 9 Jan 2012
• 1

Tachometer cap taken off

• jmh1
• 9 Jan 2012
• 1

Empty space where magnet should be

• jmh1
• 9 Jan 2012
• 1

Motor and pulley assembly

• jmh1
• 9 Jan 2012
• 1

Untitled

• jmh1
• 9 Jan 2012
• 1

 

[zipper]

Good job
The tacho sends reference voltage to the pcb which in turn controls motor speed. If for some reason it doesn't deliver voltage or the reference voltage is too low the machine can ramp up speed with a wash load/water inside. Spooky stuff
Make sure the magnet is tight & check the motor brushes.