Erecting wooden lap fence and posts, help!

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Whats the best way to put the posts into the groun, by a securing spike or by concreting them in?
How easy is it ?
 
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The best way to do this it to use concrete, it will make a more sturdy fence and it is easier to get straight. If you hit a stone when driving in the metal post then it will make the post will be twisted when you attach it, also the metal spikes will require painting if you do not want them to rust after the first rain shower.

Use postcrete, bit more expensive but no mixing required, manual or otherwise. Postcrete is ready mixed (sand cement and chips) and just add water, follow the instructions on the bag. Try to keep the hole you dig to 30cm in each direction and 45cm deep. Use 4 inch pointed posts which have been pressure treated and drive the post into the ground six inches below the bottom of your hole.

Check that it is upright on two sides next to each other and then do the postcreting.

Cut a piece of wood the same length as a panel so that you are sure the next post is far enough away for a fence post to fit in. Otherwise screw on bits of wood to the correct width across the middle of the post. Check the spacing at the bottom, top and middle between each 2 posts.

The posts should not need propped up unless it is a very windy day as the six inches they have been driven into the ground should hold them upright and the postcrete goes off pretty quickly anyway.

Hope this helps.

Andrew
 
Concrete most definitely.
You want the posts to be 2 feet longer than the height of thepanels(yes you have to dig a hole that deep & fill it with concrete)when the post & panel are in you should have about 4 inches of post above the panel (so in effect the hole is only 1 foot 8 inches deep).
As Andrew said keep the holes as narrow as possible but not to narrow as you do want some concrete around the posts & use post mix but make sure that the post is level as the mix sets in about 10 mins.
To get the correct distance to the next post hole to be dug, remove one of the weather caps off the top of a panel, lay it on the ground butted upto the post you've just put in, now dig your next hole at the other end. When the second hole has been dug nail the first panel to the first post (this can be done on your own but far easier with a helping hand to hold the panel) put spirit level on top of the panel make sure its level, if not use a shovel to lift from underneath & nail panel to the second post then concrete the post. Now repeat the process for the next panel & so on untill you finish.
To get a straight fence line, use a brickies string line, put a peg into ground at one end of the planned fence run & a peg at the other then stretch the line between pegs & secure it (get the line as tight as possible). The posts should be just touching the line when you put them in best way is to dig the hole slightly past the line this gives room to move the post to get it level.
To dig the perfect fence post hole think about hiring the proper spade, it's galled a GRAFF in the trade, speedy hire have them.

Hope that helps

Gaz
 
And from bitter experience, make sure that the top of your concrete slopes AWAY from the post. That way the rain will drain off it and not collect in a neat puddle around your fence post making it rotten in a few years! :oops:
 
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I've always put the bottom of the post in gravel below the concrete. The idea is to allow water to drain away from the wood and also keep 'live' soil with all its wood destroying fungi away from the post. There is no need to put a point on the post either.

Another favourite trick is to put half a breeze block in the bottom of the hole (on some gravel), put the post in this ready made concrete collar, push enough gravel down the sides to get the post in the right place then add wet concrete on top.

Since I don't do many fence posts I have no idea whether these methods are better or worse than any other. All constructive comments will be gratefully received.
 
Its been found that fence posts rot much quicker in concrete than if set with gravel under and concrete above or even just filled with soil.
Water cannot drain out if the post is encased in concrete.
 
When you dig out an old post you always find the bit right down in the ground is perfectly fine. They always rot at ground level. If you really want them to last then hardwood posts should last longer. But you would have to find them first and pay. Chemically pressure treated is better than just creosote.

My old grandfather said that putting a post in the bonfire before planting it will make it last longer. The burnt bit does not rot. (Better with thick gate posts of course). He also said go easy on the concrete, because one day sooner than you think you will have to dig it out again.
 

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