Euro lock buying advice.

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The lock on our front door is getting fiddly to operate - have to slightly pull key out to get it to turn so I'm going to replace it. It's 95mm but with 50 on the front of the door and 45 on the inside so I'm assuming it's a 50/45 lock that I want and not a 45/50. Is that correct?

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While I'm at it, I'm going to change the lock on the patio door as I've alway felt it protrudes too far out making it easy to snap. The outer edge is in line with the mark on the photo so I'm assuming I'll need a 40/40 to achieve what I want, is that correct?

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AFAIK you measure Euro barrels inside/outside from the outer faces of the barrel to the centre of the securing screw. That would make your top (brass) one a 45/50 and the bottom (silver) one a 40/50. From what you are saying I think you are looking for a 40/40 to replace the bottom one.
 
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Update. I've sorted the one on the rear door - I turned it round so that the protrusion is on the inside. It must have been fitted the wrong way round from day 1!
 
So great if you want to snap the lock to break out, then? AFAIK the black line goes on the outside on a snap proof - because it's the weak point
 
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What black line? I drew the black line on!
I'm viewing this on a phone with a screen about as big as my palm, so I took the black line to be the anti snap relief :oops::whistle: (where the barrel is deliberately weakened so that if a tealeaf attempts to gain entry by snapping the barrel only the end snaps off). I don't think I've fitted a barrel without that feature (or anti-drill) for maybe 10 years, now
 
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I'm viewing this on a phone with a screen about as big as my palm, so I took the black line to be the anti snap relief (where the barrel is deliberately weakened so that if a tealeaf attempts to gain entry by snapping the barrel only the end snaps off). I don't think I've fitted a barrel without that feature (or anti-drill) for maybe 10 years, now
Well, the door has to be 20 years old. Anyway, as I said earlier, I cured that by reversing the lock and had the protrusion inside. .........Until the Mrs clocked it and said it looks ugly so looks like I'll be getting a modern 40/40 Euro cylinder. :rolleyes:
 
I'm always dubious of thumb turns on any door which is glazed or has a glazed panel in it on grounds of security. Last year a locksmith showed me a tool they now use to open doors with a thumb turn through the letterbox, so agaon, less secure thanyou may think they are
 
I was told never to have a thumb turn cylinder.

Andy
I don't like them. I'm not convinced you wouldn't be covered in a burglary either as once they are in, to get away with anything substantial, they can just unlock the door. If it's double locked and there are no keys, it hampers their escape.
 
I'm always dubious of thumb turns on any door which is glazed or has a glazed panel in it on grounds of security. Last year a locksmith showed me a tool they now use to open doors with a thumb turn through the letterbox, so agaon, less secure thanyou may think they are

 
Yep, that's the kiddie.

We had a sparkie who locked a finished apartment, snapping the a key off in the lock somehow, having already left the rest of the keys inside. :whistle: The choice we had was either break the door down (cutting the lock out doesn't work with multipoint locks - you have to rip the door down near the edge) or get a locksmith. To make it worse the barrels on this job were pick proof/bump proof/drill proofs. The lockie turned up with one of those things and had the door open on a tad under 3 minutes, saving us maybe £500 to £600 for a new door (and install). Charged us £180 plus VAT for that job - we cross charged the M&E contractor, plus an admin fee of course

It was enough to convince me to replace my two ground floor Eurobarrels
 
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