F & E Tank Bungs - Advice Needed

[senator3litre]

I need to change a radiator valve, and want to use a set of 2 rubber bungs to avoid draining down (always get big airlock problems when refilling).

After fitting the bungs, water is still flowing slowly from the pipe connected to the rad. valve. When I removed the bung at the bottom of the F&E tank, I noticed that the hole (tank fitting) that the bung was pushed into isn't circular inside, it has a couple of lugs inside that prevent a good seal with the bung.

Does anyone have an ideas how to seal the bung. or can I buy a different one to fit?

 

[gas4you]

I usually use a carrot to bung the outlet of the tank, and a speedfit 22mm stop end for the vent.

You will still get a certain amount of water out until the vacuum forms

 

[Deleted member 105431]

A carrier bag over the bung before you place it in the tank connector usually helps it seal.

I use monument nylon test plugs, I have found they hold much better than bungs. You should get one 15mm and one 22mm.

 

[Mark Br]

Try wrapping the bungs in a generous amount of PTFE tape.

 

[senator3litre]

Thanks for the advice.

Dangermouse, what are test plugs that you mention, and where can I get them?

 

[D_Hailsham]

You will still get a certain amount of water out until the vacuum forms

Open or remove the bleed valve to create the vacuum; make it easier to collect the water which will come out. The vacuum will be formed when no more water comes out. Then replace the bleed valve before undoing the valve connections.

 

[Deleted member 105431]

Thanks for the advice.

Dangermouse, what are test plugs that you mention, and where can I get them?

http://www.monument-tools.com/Gas+Pipe+Drain_table.htm

near the top of page.

 

[giblets]

The only really effective way I have found to deal with the lug-type tank connectors is to tie up the ball valve in the feed tank, seal the open vent with one of the cone type bungs, bail out the water into a flexibucket to below the level of the outlet, undo the pipe connection on the outside of the tank and fit the other bung into the exposed pipe end. System now fully sealed. And don't forget, only two connections open at a time - don't try to change a three-port valve

 

[nickso]

The only really effective way I have found to deal with the lug-type tank connectors is to tie up the ball valve in the feed tank, seal the open vent with one of the cone type bungs, bail out the water into a flexibucket to below the level of the outlet, undo the pipe connection on the outside of the tank and fit the other bung into the exposed pipe end. System now fully sealed. And don't forget, only two connections open at a time - don't try to change a three-port valve

wow thats time consuming. why not just put a placcy bag over it like mentioned by someone above? i sometime dont even bother using the bungs and stuff the bag down the CF.

and i hold the world record for open ends on a bunged system. 5.

 

[Deleted member 105431]

The only really effective way I have found to deal with the lug-type tank connectors is to tie up the ball valve in the feed tank, seal the open vent with one of the cone type bungs, bail out the water into a flexibucket to below the level of the outlet, undo the pipe connection on the outside of the tank and fit the other bung into the exposed pipe end. System now fully sealed. And don't forget, only two connections open at a time - don't try to change a three-port valve

close the pump valves, any bypass and the hw balance gate valve and you can change a 3port on a bung no problem!

 

[gavinda]

ive changed a cylinder on bungs. big huge brass ones ive got


3-ports are no issue on bungs. why you struggle so?

 

[nickso]

ive changed a cylinder on bungs. big huge brass ones ive got


3-ports are no issue on bungs. why you struggle so?

i change everything on bungs, cylinders, h/e's, 3pv's, complete boilers. draining down is such a waste of time and effort.

i cant even remember the last time i had to DD. probably the last boilermate or primatic.

 

[gavinda]

likewise. cant see why people seem to struggle so with them. though i don do sylinders anymore. im not qualified to fit pipe lagginyou see

 

[sooey]

i change everything on bungs, cylinders, h/e's, 3pv's, complete boilers. draining down is such a waste of time and effort.

Kinnel, I'm not arguing with you if you can cart a full cylinder down the stairs.

 

[nickso]

i change everything on bungs, cylinders, h/e's, 3pv's, complete boilers. draining down is such a waste of time and effort.

Kinnel, I'm not arguing with you if you can cart a full cylinder down the stairs.

smartarse