F-Type Wall Socket Connection

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I am just about to start decorating the lounge and I will change the TV aerial socket outlet to match the mains sockets - in this case the MK Logic series.

I like the F-type sockets over the usual UHF type but the MK wall socket is effectively an F-type coupler so needs an F-type plug on the cable from the aerial to the wall plate. However, the co-ax cable from the aerial is the cheap stuff with honeycomb insulation installed by the developer. Is it worth trying to terminate the co-ax into an F-type connector or use the more conventional clamp connection?
 
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I am just about to start decorating the lounge and I will change the TV aerial socket outlet to match the mains sockets - in this case the MK Logic series.

I like the F-type sockets over the usual UHF type but the MK wall socket is effectively an F-type coupler so needs an F-type plug on the cable from the aerial to the wall plate. However, the co-ax cable from the aerial is the cheap stuff with honeycomb insulation installed by the developer. Is it worth trying to terminate the co-ax into an F-type connector or use the more conventional clamp connection?

F-type plugs, rely upon the centre core of coax, being a single wire. The exposed single wire, is used as the pin. Most older coax, has a multi- strand centre wire.
 
I am just about to start decorating the lounge and I will change the TV aerial socket outlet to match the mains sockets - in this case the MK Logic series.

I like the F-type sockets over the usual UHF type but the MK wall socket is effectively an F-type coupler so needs an F-type plug on the cable from the aerial to the wall plate. However, the co-ax cable from the aerial is the cheap stuff with honeycomb insulation installed by the developer. Is it worth trying to terminate the co-ax into an F-type connector or use the more conventional clamp connection?
Reading between the lines, and having fitted one or two wall sockets (;)), my guess is that you're concerned about kinking the cable as you try to fit it in the backbox space behind the wall plate.

If making the junction box hole deeper isn't an option, you could try a 90 degree F plug.

1000009824.jpg


You'll still have to deal with the coax tail, but at least it won't be pointing directly at the wall behind the socket.
 
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Reading between the lines, and having fitted one or two wall sockets (;)), my guess is that you're concerned about kinking the cable as you try to fit it in the backbox space behind the wall plate.
@Lucid I am also thinking that the cheap co-ax make not be suitable for use with the F type conector itslf as they screw onto the sheathing. I have used them on bettr quality cable with a dense foam insulation without issue
 
Probably better to buy a new cable with pre fitted ends.
Edit I read your post as the cable outside the wall..........
 
Existing air spaced coax may be decent enough quality (close weave braid) and even have a foil additional screen --- that what proper CT100 was.

F plugs need to match the cable diameter... 6.3mm WF100/CT100 or the 4.5mm WF65 (often used in shotgun $ky installs) so measure and compare carefully. Twist on decent quality F-plugs (e.g. Proception https://www.toolstation.com/proception-f-plug/p56253) will likely fit the coax in wall adequately with care. {NB I may have the exact cable diameters wrong. Waning powers ;) )

I've fitted twist-on F plugs on many bits of air spaced CT100 in the past... may still have some in use I reckon.

The logic MK looks to be 'angled' so may be fairly good to fit F-plugs if there's enough slack cable and space in a deepish back box to not kink the cable when the plate is fitted back. https://www.toolstation.com/mk-tvsatellite-socket/p33225

Ideally one should use fully screened terminations on wallplates... the back to back F plug is naturally screened!
 
Probably better to buy a new cable with pre fitted ends.
Edit I read your post as the cable outside the wall..........


If you mean these sorts of things then I'd be tempted to give them a swerve.

1725984873934.png


The construction will be similar to the coax fly-leads. That means that the cable is poorly shielded, and the internal joints between the cable's core and the pins is a solder joint (a weak point), and that an acidic component used in the construction tends to eat away at those joints and cause a premature failure.

This is all incidental to the OPs request for help.
 
Existing air spaced coax may be decent enough quality (close weave braid) and even have a foil additional screen --- that what proper CT100 was.

F plugs need to match the cable diameter... 6.3mm WF100/CT100 or the 4.5mm WF65 (often used in shotgun $ky installs) so measure and compare carefully. Twist on decent quality F-plugs (e.g. Proception https://www.toolstation.com/proception-f-plug/p56253) will likely fit the coax in wall adequately with care. {NB I may have the exact cable diameters wrong. Waning powers ;) )

I've fitted twist-on F plugs on many bits of air spaced CT100 in the past... may still have some in use I reckon.

The logic MK looks to be 'angled' so may be fairly good to fit F-plugs if there's enough slack cable and space in a deepish back box to not kink the cable when the plate is fitted back. https://www.toolstation.com/mk-tvsatellite-socket/p33225

Ideally one should use fully screened terminations on wallplates... the back to back F plug is naturally screened!

I don't think the quality of the air spaced cable in the house is all that good - cheap brown outer sheath. Certainly no foil screen.
1726077434792.png


I replaced the run to the bedroo a good few years ago to use something like CT100 but running to the lounge would be a bit more of a job than I want at the moment ;)
I will give it a go with the suggested connector and probably a right angle adaptor just to be safe
 
I don't think the quality of the air spaced cable in the house is all that good - cheap brown outer sheath. Certainly no foil screen.
Can't tell quality from that... Take off some of the sheath carefully and look at the braid weave / coverage of the inner. https://www.aerialsandtv.com/knowledge/cable-connectors-and-leads/the-three-main-types-of-coax-cable

Older stuff was much better than some of the modern cheap rubbish.

Is that a picture of the actual cables in your house? (I suspect not http://www.wrightsaerials.tv/articles/coax-cable-quality.shtml )

1726134426220.png
This is a picture of CT100 (top) and WF100 from the old Satcure website. The foil isn't especially visible on the CT100 to my eyes at least! ;)

Anyway:
As the cable has worked reliably for you then no need to replace it imho.

I'm sure with a bit of care the twist-on should work - unless the 'bore' is too small for the cable diameter where it may cut through the folded back braid.
 
Can't tell quality from that... Take off some of the sheath carefully and look at the braid weave / coverage of the inner. https://www.aerialsandtv.com/knowledge/cable-connectors-and-leads/the-three-main-types-of-coax-cable

Older stuff was much better than some of the modern cheap rubbish.

Is that a picture of the actual cables in your house? (I suspect not http://www.wrightsaerials.tv/articles/coax-cable-quality.shtml )

View attachment 355276 This is a picture of CT100 (top) and WF100 from the old Satcure website. The foil isn't especially visible on the CT100 to my eyes at least! ;)

Anyway:
As the cable has worked reliably for you then no need to replace it imho.

I'm sure with a bit of care the twist-on should work - unless the 'bore' is too small for the cable diameter where it may cut through the folded back braid.
No, not an image of the actual stuff - should have said that it is similar to the top right - it is similar to the low loss coax in you link. I know that the braid is not as good as the satellite cable.

I have some of the twist on F type connectors so will give it a go! We don't use the TV aerial much as we have satellite but it is handy if we get bad weather and need to revert to terrestrial signals
 

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