Fan assisted elec oven

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I have been informed that fan assisted ovens use a lot less power than conventional ones. The guy at the shop said because of this, the oven can be wired directly from a fused spur and i needn't bother getting a 30amp or whatever size it is cooker point installed.

Is he correct ?

Thanks
 
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Mick Leek said:
I have been informed that fan assisted ovens use a lot less power than conventional ones. The guy at the shop said because of this, the oven can be wired directly from a fused spur and i needn't bother getting a 30amp or whatever size it is cooker point installed.

Is he correct ?

Thanks

no. not nessecarily anyway. SINGLE ovens use less power than DOUBLE ovens, whether fan assisted or not. Most single ovens can be wired into a 13A socket, or as you say, a fused spur. Double ovens usually need a 20A or 30A radial. Check the rating. 3KW is the limit for a fused spur.

Tell the guy at the shop to brush up on his terminology. Double fan ovens cant usually be wired into a spur.
 
Thanks Crafty,

I wont be doing the job myself, just didn't want to pay for something that wasn't necessary..
 
depends on power rating of cooker. if 3KW or below they can go on a fused spur on the ring. otherwise itll need its own circuit. but if adding it as a spur to the ring main, you might have nuicence trippin/blown fuses if there is only 1 ring main for the house
 
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So what do you guys advise ?

Im here to listen to your recommendations.. The main problem i have is that the fuse box is an old type with the fuses you put a new bit of wire when blown... It has a fuse for up, down lights... One for up, down plugs and that is it..

it is a very old house...

there isn't a shower fuse and to be honest, i have no intentions of having an elec shower ( have new combi boiler)

would it be better if i considered a new trip meter with a few more outlets ?
 
got a pic of the fusebox. if its a wylex standard (which seems to be by far the most common) you can still get fuses/breakers for it.

a usefull trick if you run out of fuseways can be to stick in a 20A breaker and then run 2.5mm from this to a pair of FCUS (or two fuse carriers in a grid box if your short on space) with 5A fuses for the lighting cuircuits.
 
Been ther all day and only just seen this post... i will take a piccie and post it tomorrow

I did notice today that there is a seperate fuse rated at 45A ?

I also notice it makes its way into the kitchen but doesnt surface anywhere.

Maybe that is for the cooker?

Is it normal for the upstairs and downstairs plugs to be on same ring ? I turned the downstairs plugs off while i was changing the plug fronts, and i noticed the upstairs went off as well... I originally thought theye were seperate.

I think this house was wired several years ago but it is the new gray stuff..
 
Mick Leek said:
I did notice today that there is a seperate fuse rated at 45A ?

I also notice it makes its way into the kitchen but doesnt surface anywhere.
likely that is a cooker cuircuit yes but i strongly advise keeping the fuse out until such time as you find the other end of the cable! are there any large switches or outlet boxes (which look similat to blanking plates but thicker with a hole at the bottom) anywhere in your kitchen?

what do you mean by makes its way into the kitchen? where is the last place you can see the cable?


Mick Leek said:
Is it normal for the upstairs and downstairs plugs to be on same ring ? I turned the downstairs plugs off while i was changing the plug fronts, and i noticed the upstairs went off as well...
most houses have seperate upstairs/downstairs rings but you certainly don't have to in order to comply with regs and in a centrally heated house there is really little need to split them.
 
Fan ovens use less power as they are more efficient, but they can/will be the same Kw rating as a conventional oven, also a single oven requires less load / power than a double because as the name states its a single oven.
 
The fuse box is at the front door mounted to the other side of the kitchen wall... The wire shoots off through the wall and into the kitchen.

On the other side, there is an illuminated switch. But i cant see any cooker point of blanking plate...

The house is not occupied at the moment and a dividing wall is being knocked down ready for new kitchen.

If the wiring is there somewhere, i may as well use it..

I know forum rules wont allow quotes but as a ball park figure what should i be paying for the following,

1 x 3 gang plug socket adding in living room, 3 additional 2 gang sockets adding, 1 x 2 gang light switch converting to 3 and wiring for wall lights, a light switch moving from the kitchen and putting on the entrance wall from the dining room into the kitchen and making into a 2 gang ( having a doorwaw blocked so it has to be moved about 6 feet)

As stated earlier, house unocupied at moment, No furniture in house No carpets, And most of the floor boards are already lifted whislt the guys are fitting the central heating.

Must be evry sparks dream job :D
 
most houses have seperate upstairs/downstairs rings but you certainly don't have to in order to comply with regs and in a centrally heated house there is really little need to split them.

Reg number 314 - 01 - 01 (i)

Like many others I interpret this as a reason to install an absolute min of two rings (or radials) and two lighting circuits .

However strict interpretation ( If you minimize something you take it to its lowest) then every point should be on its own circuit. Can`t think anybody does that - unless of course there are a few Govt Nuclear proof installations that adopt that.
 

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