faulty diverter, should I replace whole unit with a better brand?

[Berk]

Our diverter is faulty but I think it's just the actuator that needs to be replaced, which would be relatively straightforward.

However, at a previous address with a virtually identical system these things were failing regularly every two years. I think this one has actually managed 4 years, but I'm now wondering whether to take the opportunity to replace the whole thing if there is more reliable alternative? Central heating is already partially drained while I do other things.

It's a Sunvic unit, I don't know what brand the valve itself is but iirc I think the mounting plate might have Potterton and PMV3 stamped on it. In any case I believe that several brands actuators should be compatible.



I was told by a plumber that Honeywell valves usually last really well, but after googling a bit it seems that some people experience enough failures with the Honeywell actuators that maybe they aren't going to be any better than the Potterton/Danfoss/Sunvic variety that we already have?

Also: I'm trying to wrap my head around how to replace the whole valve - does this require soldering in a new piece of pipe or are they fully interchangeable just using the compression fittings and existing pipe? And if I should choose to change the valve, will a Honeywell (or other recommended brand) valve fit in place of what's there without having to fit new pipe?

Thanks!

 

[Agile]

I find that the Honeywell, as well as the cheaper copy sold as Tower or several other names are by far the best.

My advice would be to replace all the valve.

Tony

 

[Berk]

cheaper copy sold as Tower or several other names

anyone know if the Toolstation Corgi unit (92681) is one of the reasonable copies?

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hea...sd3232/Corgi+3+Port+Mid+Position+Valve/p92681


EDIT: I have ordered a Honeywell

 

[Agile]

I have often used the Toolstation replacement heads and never had any special problems with them.

It is difficult to see any difference between them and the genuine Honeywell ones.

Not sure about the valve part as never used them.

Tony

 

[45yearsagasman]

The pipe distances are the same, so changing is relatively simple. Nut threads are not all the same, but that is simply overcome by removing the old olives and nuts and use all the new ones supplied with your new valve. Those Sunvics may not have an earth wire, so simply pick up one from your wiring centre, if that's how it's connected.

 

[stem]

My mother's bungalow built in 1981, still has the original Honeywell 2 port valve controlling the central heating.

I have three Honeywell's, two are about 15 years old, one was replaced last year when the mechanism kept jamming.

My last property had Lyndis and Gyr valves fitted. All failed after 2 to 5 years use, with different faults, motor failure, leak, microswitch stuck in the 'on' position. Honeywell for me every time now.