Fence capping (atop featheredge fencing)
- Thread starter Deluks
- Start date
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not a difficult job 2x1"treated[go for 3m lengths if your not used to a planer]
bit of 2x2"[44x44mm] countersink a 8x2"screw 5mm into the 2x2 every 11" 9 in total down the centre
don't overtighten as you only want the screws to go into the wood by more than about 12mm
place in your workmate with 1" between the bench and the top of the 2x2
plane down one side making sure you take no more than 5mm off the centre
turn around and do the other side till the "/\" appears central[doesn't matter about the first or last bit as your cutting them off]
your treated timber is likley to be blotchy as the treatment wont have penetrated evenly
further note be carefull the drive casing on the side of the planer dose'nt touch the workmate
bit of 2x2"[44x44mm] countersink a 8x2"screw 5mm into the 2x2 every 11" 9 in total down the centre
don't overtighten as you only want the screws to go into the wood by more than about 12mm
place in your workmate with 1" between the bench and the top of the 2x2
plane down one side making sure you take no more than 5mm off the centre
turn around and do the other side till the "/\" appears central[doesn't matter about the first or last bit as your cutting them off]
your treated timber is likley to be blotchy as the treatment wont have penetrated evenly
further note be carefull the drive casing on the side of the planer dose'nt touch the workmate
Sorry BA, don't quite follow, You mean use the 2x2 for support underneath the 2x1? Screwing the 2x1 into the 2x2 would leave screw holes to fill? I know what you're getting at though, I was thinking of banging some small pins into the workbench, cutting the heads off and banging the 2x1 into these, so it's held in place, but I'll take on the idea of 2x2 between workpiece and bench, to give me planer room.
I was also toying with the idea of using machine thread/wood thread double ended screws to fix it into the fence posts, by screwing them into the ends of the capping and using a resin to fix the machine thread into pre drilled holes in the posts. A few nails down into the ends of the featheredge boards should hold it all in place.
JB, I see capped f/edge fencing all over the place.
I'm planning something like this, but without the deep trench if using 2x1.
I was also toying with the idea of using machine thread/wood thread double ended screws to fix it into the fence posts, by screwing them into the ends of the capping and using a resin to fix the machine thread into pre drilled holes in the posts. A few nails down into the ends of the featheredge boards should hold it all in place.
JB, I see capped f/edge fencing all over the place.
I'm planning something like this, but without the deep trench if using 2x1.
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no we use stuff from our fencing supplier. a 2 x 1 counter rail and a capping rail to sit on top. i pay £2.00 for a 3.00m counter rail and £2.95 for a capping rail the same length. all treated and matches in with the closeboard. try a proper fencing supplier rather than wickes "we leave all our wood in a pond and buy the third rate stuff that no one else does"
In terms of fixing if its put on when there are no mortices in the post for the counter rail, we simply nail the capping to the counter rail, offer it up, and then nail through the front of the closeboard fencing into the rail behind.
keep it simple!
In terms of fixing if its put on when there are no mortices in the post for the counter rail, we simply nail the capping to the counter rail, offer it up, and then nail through the front of the closeboard fencing into the rail behind.
keep it simple!
Specialist fencing supplier was the one charging £7 a pop, so only slightly more expensive than what you pay. Rather make 'em up. All gonna get stained/painted in the end anyway.
I'll let you know if my screw/resin trick works. What would be a good weatherproof resin to use? Or shall I just grippy it in?
I'll let you know if my screw/resin trick works. What would be a good weatherproof resin to use? Or shall I just grippy it in?
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