fiesta heater

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i have had this little fiesta 1250 auto for a couple of months, nice little car but can not get the heater to work at the right temp, it is only giving me hot air although i have it on the blue, this is just about bearable in the winter with the windows open but i don,t think i will last the summer without finding a way to sort it out, am i missing something ?
 
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In the heater box there is a flap to direct the heat....... if it's closed it stops the heat going through the heater matrix, if its open it sends the air through the matrix. Flap will be operated by a cable which is attached to the control on the dashboard.
It'll be a cable come off / snapped or the flap jammed.
 
Might be worth looking at the heater valve,these tend to stick and either give you hot or cold air ,replaced dozens not a hard job to do!
 
^neo^ said:
In the heater box there is a flap to direct the heat....... if it's closed it stops the heat going through the heater matrix, if its open it sends the air through the matrix. Flap will be operated by a cable which is attached to the control on the dashboard.
It'll be a cable come off / snapped or the flap jammed.
thanks i can feel the temp control is moving a little to freely can,t seem to find any access to check it out do you know how to get behind the control panel
 
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TURLS said:
^neo^ said:
In the heater box there is a flap to direct the heat....... if it's closed it stops the heat going through the heater matrix, if its open it sends the air through the matrix. Flap will be operated by a cable which is attached to the control on the dashboard.
It'll be a cable come off / snapped or the flap jammed.
thanks i can feel the temp control is moving a little to freely can,t seem to find any access to check it out do you know how to get behind the control panel it is an 1997 fiesta lx auto. thanks gary
 
You need to remove the radio to access the securing screws for the heater control panel, however, if it's the same as my '99 1.25, the temperature control is purely an electronic pot - no cable. So I'd start with the heater solenoid valve

This is located centrally behind the scuttle panel under the bonnet AFAIK.

Hope this helps!
 
This is a simple but very common problem to fix. basically, the heater has a control valve which either allows hot water through it or not. The valve is located under the bonnet, virtually on the mid line of the car but at the rear of the engine bay, behind the small bulkhead. You'll see 4 water pipes going into it. Two from the engine bay side and two from the heater side. There are small clips clamping each pipe onto the valve, which just need to be squeezed together to enable movement back down the pipe. The pipes pull off quite easily with a bit of a twist and a tug. There is also an electrical plug on his valve which unplugs quite easily. You can get a replacement valve from Ford for about 50 quid but go online on ebay and search for 'heater control valve fiesta ka' etc and you'll get one for about 27 quid.
Make sure you just get the valve orientation correct when replacing the pipes and it's about a 15 minute job. Make sure the engine is cold before starting this job to reduce chance of scalding. You might get a bit of water coming out of the pipes but don't worry about it too much. Just keep eye on water level in header tank for radiator after you have finished the job and run the engine up to temperature.

The symptoms of the valve failing are often a heater which works intermittently and gives hot air constantly or cold air constantly. No change with a change in control position.

9 times out of 10 its this problem.
 
This is a simple but very common problem to fix. basically, the heater has a control valve which either allows hot water through it or not. The valve is located under the bonnet, virtually on the mid line of the car but at the rear of the engine bay, behind the small bulkhead. You'll see 4 water pipes going into it. Two from the engine bay side and two from the heater side. There are small clips clamping each pipe onto the valve, which just need to be squeezed together to enable movement back down the pipe. The pipes pull off quite easily with a bit of a twist and a tug. There is also an electrical plug on his valve which unplugs quite easily. You can get a replacement valve from Ford for about 50 quid but go online on ebay and search for 'heater control valve fiesta ka' etc and you'll get one for about 27 quid.
Make sure you just get the valve orientation correct when replacing the pipes and it's about a 15 minute job. Make sure the engine is cold before starting this job to reduce chance of scalding. You might get a bit of water coming out of the pipes but don't worry about it too much. Just keep eye on water level in header tank for radiator after you have finished the job and run the engine up to temperature.

The symptoms of the valve failing are often a heater which works intermittently and gives hot air constantly or cold air constantly. No change with a change in control position.

9 times out of 10 its this problem.
 
Is it possible to deactivate the heater altogether simply by unplugging the electrical plug connection? I have tried taking out the fuse but that governs the indicators!!
 
I just want no heat! I had the usual problem (cold only} then fitted a new heater unit, now have hot air only. I have exported the car to France where I only use it in summer, and its only worth a few hundred quid. All I want is to stop the sauna effect.
 
I think you can achieve that by joining the two hoses together that come from the engine at the heater valve in the bulkhead - that should bypass the heater matrix inside the car completely.
 
Thanks but I'd rather not mess with the coolant system because of possible airlocks and leaks etc. If it's possible to just disconnect from the electrics Surely thats simpler?
 
I would have thought if the valve has failed open, disconnecting the electrics plug from the valve would have no effect. You will need to replace the valve or bypass it I think.
 
Thanks but I'd rather not mess with the coolant system because of possible airlocks and leaks etc. If it's possible to just disconnect from the electrics Surely thats simpler?
No because it's a mechanical fault. The leccy circuit doesn't affect the hot air apart from the fan.
 
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