I normally use an ordinary plaster. The patching plaster I tried seemed to stick to the trowel. It is easiest with a plasterers trowel or a broad-bladed metal filling or stripping knife with quite a stiff blade. You can press this hard against the sound plaster on each side of the chase to press the new plaster to the right level. This is easier if it is quite a soft mix.
Thistle bonding will fill the chase, but it is a backing plaster so may be difficult to get the surface smooth. Left-over plaster deteriorates with age, and this can make it set so fast you don't have time to put it on.
It often cracks, so allow for two coats - one to fill it in nearly to the top, and one thin, creamy skim to smooth it off once the first one has hardened, dried, shrunk and cracked. Once the finish has firmed, splash it with water from a brush and you can polish it smooth with the plasterers trowel. If you are going to paint the wall, roughen up the polish with a rough cloth. If you put on too much, scrape it off quickly with your broad filling knife. It is much easier and cleaner to scrape off than to try and sand it.
if you give the whole wall a coat of matt white emulsion, it will be easier to spot any blemishes that you need to fix. Do this before you start proper decorating.
I prefer finish plaster, but plasterboarding jointing plaster is supposed to be very good for these little jobs.
You can buy plaster at any DIY shed or builder's merchant. I'd start with a small plastic sack as it doesn't keep well. Multifinish or Board finish would be better than Bonding or Browning undercoat plasters
If you need to plaster round metal wall boxes, you can get a special plastic guide that fits into them. On ebay as "Electrical Back Box Plastering Guide".