Finishing off a downstairs toilet

[pertinky]

Hey guys,

I ripped out the old downstairs loo recently, tiled and boarded everything so that no pipes were visible.

I'm at a bit of a xroads though with what to do next. I've fixed the toilet and the sink, although I haven't water tested them (the boards are off at the mo).

I need the room plastered though, so I guess I need to water test connections that will be covered by the boxing, leaving the flexible hoses connected to the copper piping coming through the plaster board - does this make it a pain to plaster though?

The other slight issue I have is that I've now got a chrome bottle trap for a nice finish going into the boxing. However the original boss on the stack is about 12" lower than the trap; I've got some 32mm flexible waste pipe (just about its a little cramped in there!).

When I put the plaster board back on the end that needs to be connected to the trap wont be fixed to anything, potential nightmare when I try to fit the trap AFTER plastering if its not aligned with the hole!!!

Just wondering if this is the right way to approach this?

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• pertinky
• 11 Dec 2013
• 1

I'm trying to get this done in time for NYE party!!!

 

[arosindale]

If I understand this correctly, you need to attach a plasterboard panel that the silver boss will penetrate through then have it skimmed over?

why dont you test all your water connections firstly, test them thoroughly.

Once happy with the connections, release any plumbing joints and pass them through the new plasterboard panel, at this point make sure you can access the pipework from both sides so as to then make the final connections then gently position the board into place and screw in.

A plaster will be trained to plaster around pipe work, so k woulndt worty too much about that, alternatively you can buy a plastic chrome 15mm collar that clips onto the pipe and covers a lot of sins. Ebay for approx £1

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• arosindale
• 11 Dec 2013
• 1

 

[foxhole]

I would trim the chrome so you drop a 90degree [two 45's are even better as they allow infinate adjustment]in there to connect to the soil with rigid pipe, those flexi's can perish over time and collect crud.
Chrome wastes often come with a chrome collar to hide where they pass thru wall.

 

[mattylad]

Does that flexi pipe terminate at a valve? Needs to be outside the enclosure.

 

[pertinky]

Does that flexi pipe terminate at a valve? Needs to be outside the enclosure.

Do you mean the boss?

 

[arosindale]

No, I think he means does the 15mm flexi to your tap terminate to a valve (there should be a valve on both hot and cold flexis)

Said valves will need to outside your enclosures so you can isolate if you need to service the taps.

 

[arosindale]

Also,
The photo looks like the bottom of a sink? Not a toilet!

 

[pertinky]

No, I think he means does the 15mm flexi to your tap terminate to a valve (there should be a valve on both hot and cold flexis)

Said valves will need to outside your enclosures so you can isolate if you need to service the taps.

You cant see it in the picture, but there is some more boxing running along the wall to the main stack. The isolation value is there (and accessible).

 

[arosindale]

I would just make sure ALL your pipes are leak/pressure tested with any penetrations through the plasterboard in situ (including fancy collars for the 15mm pipes and the chrome waste)

Use some decent 32mm white waste for the sink waste (ideally solvent weld type as this is 100% waterproof when used with solvent cement)

Use the simplest 32mm waste arrangement as possible, 2x 45 degree? 2 x 90 degree? (I would prefer to use 2 x 45 degree personally, this will ensure ALL water waste escapes and doesnt stagnate in your current flexi)

Hope this makes sense...

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• arosindale
• 12 Dec 2013
• 1

 

[arosindale]

The final and probably the best solution is......

Seal off the existing waste inlet into the soil pipe (you can buy blanking grommets that will slot into the hole where the current grommet is)

buy another soil pipe entry clamp, and install this at the correct height/angle to match the chrome waste pipe.
Note, you will need to extend the waste slightly as so to penetrate into the new clamp.

These little clamps are handy for entries into a soil pipe that just aren't easy.
Make a mark on the soil pipe where the penetration will need to be, drill a 32mm hole into the soil pipe, attach the clamp and push your 32mm pipe through into the soil pipe by approx 5/6mm so it just clears inside, squeeze in your grommet and jobs a gooden.

Remember to use silicone as a last resort, and remember to key the surface so the sealant can grab and form a seal.

Boss clip URL:
http://www.bcprofiles.co.uk/Soil-Pipe-and-Fittings/Soil-Pipe-32mm-Boss-Clip-110mm/prod_131.html

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• arosindale
• 12 Dec 2013
• 1