Fit lintel without removing course

bsr

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Hi

I need to fit a 900mm meter box angle lintel into a single skin block wall. I was thinking that I could try fitting it without having to remove a course?

I was thinking I could drill out the mortar bed for the length of the lintel, would somehow have to clean up with bolster/old screwdriver, and then push in the lintel, wedge up to the blocks above, then pack in a semi dry mix on the bearing at each end.

Would this work? Any tips?
 
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Hi

I need to fit a 900mm meter box angle lintel into a single skin block wall. I was thinking that I could try fitting it without having to remove a course?

I was thinking I could drill out the mortar bed for the length of the lintel, would somehow have to clean up with bolster/old screwdriver, and then push in the lintel, wedge up to the blocks above, then pack in a semi dry mix on the bearing at each end.

Would this work? Any tips?
Yes. Just make sure you have the clearance sorted, else you will disturb the blockwork trying to bash the lintel in.
 
You might have an easier job with a mortar rake fitted on an angle grinder if the depth was suitable?
 
You'll need to remove at least one brick at a bearing or half at both bearings to allow the lintel to be rotated up and in
 
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You'll need to remove at least one brick at a bearing or half at both bearings to allow the lintel to be rotated up and in
it’s a bit of thin angle on a single block skin. I could do it with one arm and the blocks intact.
 
You'll need to remove at least one brick at a bearing or half at both bearings to allow the lintel to be rotated up and in

Woody, just to check we are thinking about the same type of lintel:
 
You might have an easier job with a mortar rake fitted on an angle grinder if the depth was suitable?
115mm grinder only cuts to 30mm. I guess I could try a 9" grinder but that sounds scary with a raking blade (if such a thing exists)
 
How would a builder normally cut out a brick? Stitch drill, raking blade, other?
Stitch drill. The trick with removing any mortar joint is causing the least disruption to the masonry. Use a 10mm SDS bit and try and destroy as much as the mortar as possible with the drill, by keeping the stitch tight. Then attack as much depth as you can with the angle grinder. Finish with a plugging chisel. You will likely need the full depth of the joint removed as there is a slight lip on the angle steel. Don't angle grind first as it can cause the drill to snatch.
 
How would a builder normally cut out a brick? Stitch drill, raking blade, other?
Stitch drill and remove most of the mortar around the brick, then use a 120mm mortar rake bit on an angle grinder to fully remove the mortar and the brick will be free.
Right tool for a job done right.
 
I cut mine out with a masonry blade in my reciprocating saw. I hope these blocks aren't lightweight or they're likely to be softer than the mortar. It would be interesting to know what you're doing.
 
I cut mine out with a masonry blade in my reciprocating saw. I hope these blocks aren't lightweight or they're likely to be softer than the mortar. It would be interesting to know what you're doing.
They can be a bit aggressive and snatchy, particularly if the blade is allowed to slow down. Agree though, any machine is likely to win over human effort.
 
Woody, just to check we are thinking about the same type of lintel:
Yes, genetic L shape.

You need to be able to slide it in with a gap equal to the depth of the lintel, or rotate it in via a smaller gap.

On larger windows and doors, we used to remove the bearings as its less work.
 

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