This would involve cutting through the lower brace entirely...so what could I do to reinforce the door? Just fit two vertical pieces of wood between the lower and central ledge on either side of the opening? Will that be enough to stop the door falling apart?
I'd fit one or two sub-braces (shorter diagonals) around the flap, or failing that another middle ledge/rail with at least two widely spaced screws per batten.
You've perhaps missed the idea that we want to fit a dog-flap - not just have a hole in the door!
And we have, in fact, left the door open for years, but it's rather draughty, and a waste of heat! The dog is used to having free access to outside, but it's wasteful to leave the door open all day long for the few occasions when she needs to go out. So, with another winter upon us, I'm finally facing up to the logistics of modifying the door to enable a flap to be fitted.
I'd fit one or two sub-braces (shorter diagonals) around the flap, or failing that another middle ledge/rail with at least two widely spaced screws per batten.
Thanks. Looking at the dog-flap we've just bought to fit in another door, there'll not be much room for an extra middle rail between the existing and the top of the dog-flap, nor any space for two extra diagonals.
I'm aware that a single brace is meant to take the strain of the top of the door and transfer it to the bottom hinge: I'm just hoping that a door with a mid-rail and two diagonal braces will be strong enough to have the bottom brace severely compromised. But maybe not: otherwise why was it built like that...
But yes, extra screws wherever I can, to stop any possible slippage of the boards.
In preparing to take the photo, I realised that if the flap wasn't placed in the centre of the door, as I'd originally envisaged, it might be possible to avoid cutting through the whole of the brace. I guess the nearer I take it to the edge of the door, then there would be room to reinforce the brace to some extent?
Many ways to do it, I think. I might even be inclined to replace the lower brace with a snug fitting sheet of ply over the width of the door. This would allow the dog flap to fit flat against the door, would support weakening/splintering of those (t&g?) battens, and do the job of the brace. The sheet would be short of the full width by a couple of inches both sides for clearance.
Or you could mebbe just remove the brace entirely and fit more screws in the rails.
The lower diagonal brace isn't a necessity unless the door gets banged a lot, but you won't be able to fit the dog flap half on and half off the brace. Bodgers 1st suggestion is a good one.
True, but I was thinking of building up the other edges of the door flap with wood of the same thickness as the brace, so it would be possible to have the flap half on and half off the brace. And also maybe widen the brace with an extra but of wood on the left hand side. (Tricky, perhaps, since the brace is nicely bevelled)
Another alternative is to fit a smaller dog flap than that marked out in the photo.
But that might also necessitate getting a smaller dog...
Dog can already open the door, if it's ajar. But it's the back door, and we're losing all the expensive heat from the Aga. She's used to being able to go out when she wants/needs to, so we can't shut the door when we're not around. Dogflap seems a good solution. Would be easy if it wasn't a ledged and braced door. Please don't suggest changing the door as well as the dog.
As long as you are competent to remove, and then move the brace and ledge, then you can cut the dog flap where you want. At the end of the day, it's just a wooden door, and can be painted to cover up any issues.
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