Fitting a Honeywell DT92E -Help please!

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Hi all,
Well as ever an update to improve economy which was sold as simple and straight forward has not gone quite to plan!

We have purchased a Honeywell DT92E in place of a standard Honeywell digital thermostat.

The existing thermostat has two wires connected, a yellow one and a red one, there is a blue one not used in the choc block.

The new thermo stat has a number of possible terminal connections, I connected the yellow and red wire to the L and N of the new thermostat, it sprung to life but would not turn the boiler on.

Can anyone help with the wiring please?

I have attached some pictures below to help.

Thanks
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3E4D2B0D-E258-46BF-AC2B-C4A06F3A2DF2_zpszwu6caon.jpg
 
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As per the wiring diagram, you need another core back to the boiler. Can you not put the receiver unit closer to the boiler and 're-cable' it for that short distance?

(that to me is the point of the 'wireless' bit......)

DH
 
that red and yellow are not live and neutral they are live in an live out

They need to go in the a and b
With a separate L N to the LN


Fit it back where boiler or wiring centre is its so much easier

edit yep B , typo
 
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As said, the receiver goes near the wiring centre/main junction box for the ch system. Then you can put the actual stat/transmitter on the wall in old stat location istead - obviously the wires in wall are to be made safe and not needed for stat.
 
Thank you everyone,

Moving it next to the wiring box in the aircupboard should not be a problem.

So will I need:

Perm live
Perm neutral

Boiler live (switched)

Thanks
 
that red and yellow are not live and neutral they are live in an live out

They need to go in the a and c
With a separate L N to the LN


Fit it back where boiler or wiring centre is its so much easier

So all I really need is a perm

Live
&
Neutral for the L and N of the new plate?

And the red and yellow wire go into A and B or A and C?

Will it work then?

Thanks
 
Live to L, Neutral to N, link L to A at the stat, connect switched live to B. This needs 3 wires therefore you only need to add one.
 
Live to L, Neutral to N, link L to A at the stat, connect switched live to B.

You could reuse the blue which is not used on the existing stat providing you check the connections at the other end are as they should be. Preferably red for live, blue for neutral and yellow for switched live. This would need no additional wiring.
 
Live to L, Neutral to N, link L to A at the stat, connect switched live to B.
The supply to L and N must be permanent. So this won't work if the live to terminal A of the old stat comes from the CH ON terminal of a programmer.
You will need:

Permanent Live/Neutral to L and N
Live from CH ON to A
Switched Live to Boiler/Motorized valve from B
 
Live to L, Neutral to N, link L to A at the stat, connect switched live to B.
The supply to L and N must be permanent. So this won't work if the live to terminal A of the old stat comes from the CH ON terminal of a programmer.
You will need:

Permanent Live/Neutral to L and N
Live from CH ON to A
Switched Live to Boiler/Motorized valve from B

Thank you everyone,

I thought this as well, as the unit needs a permanent live and neutral.

So is this right:

Live (new live feed) to L
Neutral (new neutral feed) to N

Red wire to A on new unit
Yellow wire to B on new unit

Is this correct?

I am going to position it right next to the junction box as its a wireless stat

Thank you, look forward to replies.


:?:
 
Yes, but they don't need to be new cables if you want to put it in the same place. You have three wires at the moment and need three for the new stat. As long as they are connected correctly at the other end - permanent live, neutral and switched live.
 
Yes, but they don't need to be new cables if you want to put it in the same place. You have three wires at the moment and need three for the new stat. As long as they are connected correctly at the other end - permanent live, neutral and switched live.

I see what you mean, the problem would be working out which wire was the boiler switched wire.

So if the method I have listed above will work, then I think I will plough on with wiring it like that. ??

Thanks, :?:
 
Has it been determined that the boiler control wires are 240V?


Do the job properly and fit the receiver near the boiler or wiring centre.
 

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