Fitting a log burner?

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Not sure if this is the right place to be asking, But it seemed most relevant.

We currently have a gas fire, Which we are having capped and removed by a corgi registered gas man :).

We would like to replace this with a log burner, but have been quoted anywhere between £850 and £2600 to do this, so have come to the decision that with my dads help we will do it ourselves!
I understand that i will need to contact my councils building officer. But im generally asking what happens next and wether my ideas are correct.

We recently had the gas fire smoke tested, and it passed, Does this mean that the chimmeny is sound and ready to use?

We want to tile around the the log burner will this be acceptable?
we have a vent in the room that was required for the gas fire. and we have a carbon monoxide detector.

So whats next?, Am i correct in thinking that we will need a steel plate up the chimmeny that the 1m of steel flue connects to? (all set with heat proof concrete) and then whats above this??

thanks
 
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your flue needs lined with a class 1 lining[not cheap
needs instaling by a certified person
 
your flue needs lined with a class 1 lining[not cheap
needs instaling by a certified person

Im confused, I have been led to believe that the building regs will certify if we do the work?
And yes im aware proper class 1 liner needs using i wantr to know where! (in replacment of the gas liner i suppose) but will it need using if my chimeny is sound?
 
the liner must travel the full distance to the pot at the top because off the tar that can and does exude from timber
 
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Print off a list of independent HETAS registered installers in your area from their website;
http://www.hetas.co.uk/nearest_member
Phone at least 3 & get quotes. You should be able to get a stove supplied by you installed with insulated flue liner, register plates, pot & cap installed for the lower of your figures, certainly less that £1000, including the cost of materials; avoid the stove shops they will generally charge you an arm & a leg.

There are several Building Regs. you must comply with, there is an LABC fee involved with the Building Notice you need to submit & the Building Inspector will most likely require to witness smoke, draught & spillage tests. The cock up factor is quiet high unless you know what you’re doing & to be honest from your post it doesn’t sound promising :LOL: . Climbing onto a roof with an 8m stainless steel snake strapped to your back is not for the feint hearted either & then you’ve got to get it down the chimney :confused: ! In all honesty the £4-500 cost of a HETAS registered installer is money well spent & you will get a certificate of compliance which you will need in future.

You can use tiles around the stove & most quality trade cement based adhesives are suitable (but check). What you shouldn’t do is use any Gypsum based plaster or plaster products around the stove or on the wall/chimney breast above & to the side of the stove; it won’t stand a temperature of more than 50 degrees C & will fail in a very short time. Use only heatproof render (or sand/cement/lime render) & finishing plaster. Also have a read here;
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=211524
 
:) My dad has built many a house in his time, Im sure if he had written the post it would sound a little more promising, Its just tht he babbles a lot and i dont understand. Im sure if i left him to it it would be fine, But i like to satisfy my own surriosity and though it would ask so i can run a few prices through my mind. We are getting the gas fire capped of and removed next week, He is also perfoming a smoke test once the liner is removed to check soundeness of the chimeny. this is costing £45.

Iv ran a company who is selling me my log burner. and they told me that so long as the chimeny is sound i would not need a flue running the whole length,and that i would only need 2 ft of flue connecting to a plate and seal it all with heat proof cement :S. Is this correct? it sounds a little to easy?
 
If you have a class 1 flue, yes, a simple register plate and steel pipe are enough.

You should be more concerned about the quality of your wood and where you are going to store it so that it can dry out.
 

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