Fitting a new central heating pump

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Im exchanging a central heating pump due to it leaking, could some kind sole explain the correct way in draining down the system to fit it. (External pump from boiler)

Optional I have heard you can buy some freeze spray in a can that freezes the water in the pipework, this im told can be used to avoid a drain down, is this advisable.

Thanks in advance
 
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CH pump should have isolating valves fitted at both ends. Either Gate type ( use spanner to shut ) or ball type ( use screwdriver to shut )

Isolate pump using the valves

Isolate electric supply and disconnect

Undo the nuts on the pump valve

Remove pump.

Fit new pump ( reverse order of above )

Follow enclosed manufactures instructions on commisioning the new pump.

Dan
 
dont forget to fit new fibre or the rubber washers wot come with pump :cry:
 
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make sure same pump speed :cry: (if you want to...that is, sometimes i experiment....)
 
One of the pump gate valves is also leaking so i might as well change both valves so it looks like a total drain down and refill of the system.

Was wondering what is the correct method of draining down the system to fit the pump and gate valves then to refill avoiding any air locks. The system has been plumbed in using microbore 8mm copper pipeing to the radiators and will probably be a nightmare in refilling the system due to the 8mm pipework.

Thanks for all the kind replies :)
 
Assuming this is a 2 story building with pump on upper floor this is no big deal as you only nee to drain the upstairs portion of the system.
would recommend that before you start you check that the expansion tank does not have any slime floating on top of water in it. if it does remove it first or it will go into your system when you refill, also get some anti bacterial treatment for when you refill.
having checked done that;
- switch off cold water supply to house, or if that needs to be kept on put something across top of expanion tank that can be used to tie the ball cock up to (stop system refilling untill job done).
- connect (push on) piece of garden hose to drain valve on one of downstairs radiator, open drain valve, having placed other end of hose somewhere that your happy to have water drain to.
- you will get some water out but after a while flow will reduce, at this point open all the bleed valves on the upstairs radiators, you will hear the air being sucked in as the water falls. wait untill flow stops (all water from upstairs and the one rad downstairs you are draining from has gone). at this point open the air valve alongside the pump, this will allow the water in that part of the system to fall out too.
- when job is done, close all valves, bleeders etc and turn water on or release expansion tank ball cock.
- when water stops being taken up by system go round and bleed all upstairs rads plus one used to drain system downstairs plus the air valv along side pump.

may as well change both isolating valves whilst you have the chance as they are usually less than about £3 each.
 
After refilling system im having problems getting water to upstairs radiators due to i assume air locks in the system.

I can hear air rushing around the system when its hot.
I have tried closing off all rad valves apart from one rad generating all the heat onto that one radiator but all i get is a little air comming out then after about 4 seconds nothing at all.

The f+E tank has water in it so their is water in the system so could the problem be due to the 8mm piping that was used to feed the rads.

All in all any ideas on how to clear this air lock without another total drain down, thanks

The boiler fitted is a baxi back boiler
 
Remembered the air bleed point by the HW cylinder?
 
Thanks for the help got hot water to all rads apart from one which it seems after me draining the system sludge from the rad blocked the rad valve so after a few bangs on the valve hot water came through so everything is fine. Thanks again for your help.
 

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