Fitting a real wood worktop

[EmmTee]

Hi all.


Just joined this forum, got some good tips so far. In the not too distant future i'm gonna be fitting some real wood worktops. The shape to be covered is U Shape but in one corner will have an angle to it where i've got a corner turnmotion unit with a fitted door. Will i be able to buy a 950mm x 1.5m real wood worktop (which will fit the whole of one corner/length and the angle(length is only 1200mm to 900mm width at angle)) and cut the angle out of it and re-finish the leading surface myself, and if so with what?

 

[^neo^]

Depends what tools you have really.

I'd seriously consider getting a pro in to finish the top off though. It's the bit you see the most so any balls ups will stick out like a sore thumb

 

[Jasonb]

Thats not the usual way to fit a turnmotion, they fit into a 90degree corner and the area above the curved door is covered by a loose cutting board or manmade stone surface.

If you are thinking of running a length of worktop at 45deg across the corner then you will have a job finding one at 950mm to get the front to back distance, as its a wood top it will not be too hard to either join a scrap onto the back of a standard 900mm width or have a joint near the middle from 600 & a 450mm top.

Either way you will need a decent 1/2" router, straight edge etc and be able to accuratly set out the 22.5degree mitre joints and cut bolt slots.

Jason

 

[EmmTee]

Cheers Neo and Jasonb, great advice. Jasonb you can get the worktop size i mentioned, but as neo said its the finishing thats the prob. Trouble is the worktops are walnut and the only kidney shape finishing cutting board i've found for the turnmotion are either granite black or beech, neither of which match the rest of the kitchen. Any ideas if more colours are available, also the turnmotion is not the type fitted with a curved steel door but with a matching cupboard door so it doesn't have a curve to it.

 

[Jasonb]

Finishing the front edge is the easy part, accuratly cutting the joints is going to be the hardest part.

Most solid wood tops come with a square edge that will need a light sanding then the corners are eased with either a bearing guided roundover or chamfer bits in a router

The angled mitres will need a decent 1/2" router with either a 50mmx12.7mm straight bit or a multitrim bit which is my prefered method. You will need to set out the angles and then cut the top 3-5mm oversize with a jigsaw or circular saw. Then set a straight edge to the line (allowing for offset if using a straight bit) and then trim to the line with several passes of the router.

Once all the mitres are cut you then need to route out for worktop bolts and cut biscuit slots along the joint edges.

You can now bolt up the tops with waterproof woodglue or clear silicon.

Done correctly you should have seamless joints like this but if you have not used a router before get someone in.

Jason