Fitting a woodburner into a shed?

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Hi,

I will be fitting a woodburner into my 14' by 10' shed and I need help!

What I really need answers to are the following:

1. I have the pyrimid shaped silicone rubber thingy that goes on top of the roof and fits snugly around the flue to create a watertight seal, but where I have cut out the hole in the roof the wood will be only 2" away from the flue. I assume I need to protect it somehow? Could I just use the left over bits of the silicone rubber roof flashing and somehow attach it around the hole on the inside of the roof?

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2. I need the flue to come out of the back of the burner. How do i support the 2m of cast iron flue? Do I need to? Once all the fire cement is hardened will this support it?

3. I have left over paving slabs that will fit around the the woodburner attached to the shed wall (roughly 18") from burner. These reach the height of the burner but I will not have anything protecting the walls where the flue rises up (approx 18" from walls). I realise the flue will get extremely hot, but surely I dont need protection all the way to the top of the shed where the flue goes up?

Thats the lot! Question 1 is the one I'm most stuck on.

Thanks alot

Steve..
 
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it needs to be up to 16 inches away from wood but you will know that hence you using a double flue through the roof
or in your case assuming you have a 4" flue get a 6" stainless hat and length to go through the roof with the relivent boot for the distance from the stove and pack the space with heatproof insulation that will protect the wood in close proximity
 
Thanks for that,

Thats a good idea. Any ideas where I can find one of these hats with a boot? Also what types of heatproof insulation would be advisable and where to buy?

tried to upload a picture before of the roof flashing.


Any more comments gratefully received regarding all questions.

Thanks, steve..
 
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Make sure installation/ventilation is correct, this can be just as much of a killer as any other open flued appliance.
 
I’m unsure if BR’s apply if you installing into a non habitable shed but installing a stove is normally controlled building work subject to inspection unless carried out by a HETAS registered installer. To reiterate Gassbanii's warning, please make sure you install it correctly & smoke test thoroughly to avoid burning your shed down or fatal suffocation. Here are some sobering links for you;

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/art...wood-burning-stove-leaks-carbon-monoxide.html
http://www.eveningnews24.co.uk/news/warning_over_heaters_after_norfolk_couple_s_death_1_811099
http://www.solidfuel.co.uk/main_pages/news.htm
 
Thankyou for the last reply Richard C, it really has made me think. I was aware CO may be an issue but I didn't really know anything about it.

I am still going to fit it myself but I will get a professional in to check it and I will also buy a CO monitor.

Does anyone understand CO poisoning? Is it related to flue length or just poor fitting seals?

Also, with regard to ventilation. There is a gap running all the way around where the roof meets the walls. I assume this is more than adequate? I was planning on filling these gaps in, perhaps I wont?

Steve
 
Hi,
Between the wood and the flue pipe should be exhaust bandage,
rap the bandage round the pipe then slip it up between wood and pipe.
 
Some of the parts/materials suggested are nonsense, as its not connected to a permanent building the regs don't apply, however..........

I really would get it installed professionally to ensure its safe for various reasons...........if you attempt it diy it just wont comply and you probably wont like a professional telling you to change most of it.

Carbon monoxide can be produced from virtually any burning device you need to ensure ventillation is correct (eaves suggestion is out of the question!) and you need to ensure the flue works, flue length is going to be short so you may have a problem with it "Pulling" which is probably what killed the person mentioned in one of the links.............

You probably are under the impression its an easy diy job, it isn't. It has to work safely and there are various things you will be totally unaware of to ensure it works safely......what more can I say ?
 

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