fitting beading - best practise..

[kitessurfer]

Hi all,
I'm in the middle of dot&dab plasterboarding out the garage conversion..
I've bought some beading for around the window, what's the correct method of securing the beading please? Please bear in mind below plasterboard in in some cases i've got concrete lintel, in other arears block work.. PB is 12.5mm, I haven't seen any short pb galvanised nails for the job around. Do I cut down screws / nails to 10mm? Do I attempt to hammer down into the brick etc..?
thanks for any advice..
KS

 

[joe-90]

Dabs of plasterboard adhesive.

 

[Richard C]

You can use PB adhesive as joe says, it’s easiest if you’ve got some mixed. I also use a grab adhesive cartridge gun or a staple gun & sometimes a mixture of both. The staple gun works well on plasterboard but not so well on masonry or existing plaster where I just use grab adhesive & sometimes a couple of strips of Gaffa tape to hold it in place while the adhesive goes off. I never use screws or nails, takes too long & is unnecessary!

 

[kitessurfer]

Thanks guys,
I'll give it a go with the adhesive whilst holding in place with the gaffa tape, or maybe staples. Not sure if I just use staples whether they would rust and get throught the pb in years to come. I'm amazed this 'mesh' stuff can be hidden under only 3mm of skim. I'll add a few pics of my last few days pb'ing to my album for others to admire

Cheers.
KS

 

[Richard C]

Not sure if I just use staples whether they would rust and get throught the pb in years to come.

Naaa, you only need about one about every 300-400mm to hold it in place each side & the amount of steel involved is so small as to be insignificant. I’ve been using staples for a good few years & never had a problem.

 

[joe-90]

You are better off using the smaller beading that's not mesh with plasterboard. It's always in the same area of the shop. Solid with slots in it.

 

[roy c]

I use an elecric stapler and hold my level on the bead then staple it..Works on light-weight plasters and float-coat as well wont rust as they are galvanised... On old render or solid walls I will put a few Hilti-nails in to hold the bead steady then skim and take nails out when firmed up on first coat...You can use this method on concrete lintols if your rendering just take them out before you float up,,,,

 

[Richard C]

You are better off using the smaller beading that's not mesh with plasterboard. It's always in the same area of the shop. Solid with slots in it.

"Expamet", it's the one I use; flatter than the mesh but not sure who makes it.

 

[roy c]

Richard C.
I think you will find that "Expamet" is the brand name of the company that makes most of the expanding metal products ......

 

[roughcaster]

Expamet thin coat beading is the one I use. "Simpson" is another manufacturer of thin coat beading too. A few weeks ago, I went to a job where the customer's father had put on thin mesh beading down every external corner (bedded on with multi). I took them all off (with her permission) and replaced them with thin coat beading, put on with 30mm ish galvanised nails, as usual. So I'm with Joe.

Roughcaster.

 

[roy c]

Standard angle bead is ok if your floating out first, and also used out-side on external rendering...

 

[Richard C]

Richard C.
I think you will find that "Expamet" is the brand name of the company that makes most of the expanding metal products ......

Being primarily an Engineer, I both know & have worked with Expamet products for years. The sticker on the beading originally caught my eye but I didn’t realise they made the mesh offering as well; I suppose it should have been obvious really!

 

[roughcaster]

Standard angle bead is ok if your floating out first.

You're talking a lot more work involved now Roy. Spirit level, straight edge, and they're flimsier too, not just a case of fixing onto a ready made plasterboard corner. I have never and would never use them outside though. I think corners on render, roughcast etc look much better returned without beading. I've seen both the plastic and galvanised, and they do not look the part, in my opinion.

Roughcaster.

 

[roy c]

I think you miss-under stood me rough-caster the "standard angle" beads we use outside are about 2" wide with wide mesh on them and would be stainless and so would the "bell mould" along the DPC...We would put them on the "scratch " coat and leave about 6-8mm for float coat...

 

[roughcaster]

Bit of confusion. I use the "bellcast" stop beading along the dpc for roughcast or render,the same as you do, but I never use angle (corner) beading of any description outside. Personal choice. Have even used lengths of timber along the DPC to form the bell, before beading came about. Used timber too when forming reveals, inside and out, returned "wet" corners... Ahh, the bad old days, but still comes in handy

Roughcaster.