Fitting Fluidmaster Bottom Entry Valve

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I've been having problems with a Torbeck bottom fill valve not shutting off. Have replaced the diaphram a few times but it doesn't fix the problem for long. It's also recently been hammering when it does shut off after filling.

So now I'm thinking of replacing the Torbeck with a Fluidmaster PRO45B (with brass shank). I'm a complete amateur so I will probably get a plumber to come and do the work, but I first wanted to get some advice on whether or not the Fluidmaster is the right thing to get, and if it will be possible to fit one into my tank, which has a very large flush valve close to the inlet valve ? I'm attaching photos ...

Thanks in advance for any suggestions ...

Earl


PS - I've been told that replacing the whole valve can be tricky on a toilet like mine where the porcelain tank sits directly on top of the porcelain bowl - why is this & how to best avoid causing damage ?

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The Fluidmaster is an excellent piece of kit - probably the best out there.
If it will physically fit inside the cistern then its the one to use.......from your pics its impossible to tell, really.
The brass thread is a couple of millimetres longer than the typical plastic ones and this isn't a problem unless your existing pipe is tight against the floor.
The Fluidmaster, like the Torbeck, is adjustable for height and both come with pressure restrictors - which you should use if the water pressure is high.
If in doubt, replace the Torbeck like for like - at least you know it fits - and fit the high pressure restrictor inside the stem.
Use a new fibre washer on the connector too, and watch for darn cross threading!
Fitting a new fill valve does not involve splitting the loo....its only replacing the syphon that needs that.
John :)
 
The PRO45B will not fit as a direct replacement. The float rises and falls on the stem, so there will not be enough room alongside the syphon bell.

Your cistern would need to have the overflow and supply reversed to allow fitting the PRO45B.
 
thanks both.

i was worried that there might not be enough room for the fluidmaster.

forgive my ignorance, but where should the fibre washer go ? and is this something i need to buy separately from the torbeck bottom entry valve pack ?

earl
 
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Bottom pic - if you undo the brass nut that couples to the plastic valve stem, the fibre washer is right there.
You may not need one, but you never know! Bert & Queenies etc do them in poythene packs - I'm sure there isn't one with the new valve.
A 1/2" one is what you need.
John :)
 
You could go the whole hog and fit a Fluidmaster flapper valve as well as the inlet valve. It will convert your cistern to push-button, dual-flush, but it would involve splitting cistern from pan.
 
i've finally had the fill valve replaced with the new style torbeck adjustable height bottom fill valve. (LF00122) which poses two new questions ...

1. on the new valve, the water comes in through the plastic ring and goes down the "bag", which makes the trickle audible - is this correct ?

2. filling the cistern is now very slow. during fitting i asked the plumber if it was necessary to use a restrictor and he said no ... but is it possible that it comes supplied with one already in place that he should have removed ? (i have a water tank & the pressure is not so great here, but it's definitely not filling as quickly as it used to.)

any advice much appreciated - thanks !
 
yes they normally come with a restrictor pre fitted in the bottom which can be just pulled out, but to do that it will need the copper pipe disconnecting from the new ballvalve
 
thanks for your quick reply CBF

from the instructions on the opella site, it looks like the restrictor is fitted in the top half of the adjustable column ... if this is the case, can i just shut off the water & unscrew the top part to remove it, or does it defintely need to be disconnected at the bottom ?
http://www.opella.co.uk/Resources/LF00122_Torbeck_Adjustable_Height.pdf

yes they normally come with a restrictor pre fitted in the bottom which can be just pulled out, but to do that it will need the copper pipe disconnecting from the new ballvalve
 

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