Fitting Immersion Switch
- Thread starter brucey
- Start date
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A dual immersion comes with 2 x heating elements so a dual immersion switch would normally have something like bath and sink switches.
If you only have 1 x element in your tank then that will wire to the bath side, as the main (and only) element.
Subject to run distance a 3000w / 3kw will run from a fuseboard in 2.5mm TE and cope with the load. A 16a rated fuse should be the board end unit.
If it's the only water heating it might be worth checking out Eco 7 for the savings and re-routing the cable on to that service which does the heating over night at 40% of the cost of day rate juice.
Alternatively buy a 20a switch (with a neon) for about £6 and use that.
If you only have 1 x element in your tank then that will wire to the bath side, as the main (and only) element.
Subject to run distance a 3000w / 3kw will run from a fuseboard in 2.5mm TE and cope with the load. A 16a rated fuse should be the board end unit.
If it's the only water heating it might be worth checking out Eco 7 for the savings and re-routing the cable on to that service which does the heating over night at 40% of the cost of day rate juice.
Alternatively buy a 20a switch (with a neon) for about £6 and use that.
Re-read your OP, when you say 2 x cables one cable (twin and earth) should be already terminated as the supply cable from the main board.
The other is normally a flex from the immersion heater and it's easy enough to see which one that is, as it tends to be a flylead.
That flex (or other cable to the immersion) terminates load- bath on a 2 way bath / sink dual switch.
The other is normally a flex from the immersion heater and it's easy enough to see which one that is, as it tends to be a flylead.
That flex (or other cable to the immersion) terminates load- bath on a 2 way bath / sink dual switch.
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