Fitting log burning stove

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Im looking to fit a log burning stove into a existing chimney (big inglenook)
I have found most of the information I need but I have a question about fitting the register plate some plates advertised are fixed into the chimney with the flue liner fixed to the back of the plate and the solid flue pipe from the fire fixed to the underside..
Others the flue liner is fitted directly to the solid flue pipe with the register plate in two halves then fitted around the flue..
Also most plates have a angle frame fixed to the inside of the chimney with the plate screwed to this others just have a few angle brackets fixed to the plate and you fit in one peace. (I would think this is difficult to seal)
What is the correct thing to do ?
Also should I lag the flexible liner ?
 
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The correct thing to do is to contact a HETAS registered fitter to carry out a site survey and provide you with a quote. Fitting a stove and flue liner is not a job for a DIY'er i'm afraid.

If you post your area maybe someone on here could put you in touch with a HETAS guy?
 
The fitting of a flexible liner can be a DIY job but it will come under building controll and they will be informed when I intend to start the job.
as I said I have done my research i was just trying to clarify the fitting of the register plate as I have seen a couple of different types.
 
Im looking to fit a log burning stove into a existing chimney (big inglenook)
I have found most of the information I need but I have a question about fitting the register plate some plates advertised are fixed into the chimney with the flue liner fixed to the back of the plate and the solid flue pipe from the fire fixed to the underside..
Others the flue liner is fitted directly to the solid flue pipe with the register plate in two halves then fitted around the flue..
Also most plates have a angle frame fixed to the inside of the chimney with the plate screwed to this others just have a few angle brackets fixed to the plate and you fit in one peace. (I would think this is difficult to seal)
What is the correct thing to do ?
Also should I lag the flexible liner ?

I would bring the liner through the register plate and fit the adapor just below it. If you backfill with vermiculite then you can't remove the register plate without it all falling out. So I prefer to have that joint visible below the register plate.

If you are filling with vermiculite then you don't need to vent the void around the liner. The register plate then only needs to stop the vermiculite falling out.

Are you going to back fill around the liner with vermiculite?

It all depends how much vertical space you have got to fit it all in above the stove and how much will be visible. It's worth drawing it out so that you know it's going to fit.
 
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i would not fitted a wood burner to a solid flue flexi liner even though you are allowed.

if you get the combustion rate wrong , which most do you will start to line the liner with tar deposits . these are incredibly difficult if not impossible to remove .
 
i would not fitted a wood burner to a solid flue flexi liner even though you are allowed.

if you get the combustion rate wrong , which most do you will start to line the liner with tar deposits . these are incredibly difficult if not impossible to remove .

What liner would you recommend?

Concrete?
 
why does it have to be lined it the existing flue/chimney not suitable ? Has it been tested ?

As said prevoius "Contact a HETAS installer for a quote"

This is why I dont recommend a flexi . Dont know who this guy is but good video .


 
Thats quite scary for that much build up of Tar in a Flue,never mind the rest of the chimney.

I presume you could get that build up on the inner skin of a double skin going thru the centre of your house?
 
Thats quite scary for that much build up of Tar in a Flue,never mind the rest of the chimney.

I presume you could get that build up on the inner skin of a double skin going thru the centre of your house?

I think the main point shows is how important it is to get the right people in for the right job .

and yes it would line the flexi liner increasing its weight would could mean it drops out of the closure plate .

Not sure how much damaged would be do to that liner with that de-tarring tool
 
why does it have to be lined it the existing flue/chimney not suitable ? Has it been tested ?

I was asking out of interest, I have seen adverts for concrete lining of chimneys, but not many people seem to do it.

I would have thought it would be a better longer lasting solution than a flexi liner.
 
i would not fitted a wood burner to a solid flue flexi liner even though you are allowed.

if you get the combustion rate wrong , which most do you will start to line the liner with tar deposits . these are incredibly difficult if not impossible to remove .

This is melodramatic nonsense. A good quality liner with insulation is fine. Burning wet wood or running an oversized stove at very low rates could cause problems, but that's not a problem associated with the liner.

The one good piece of advice hidden in this is to run a small stove hard rather than a large stove low.
 
Thank you for all your comments
The reason for fitting a stove in the 1st place is because it's a big inglenook with an open fire and consequently quite drafty without the fire lit.
The chimney is quite a size I can almost reach the inside of the stack standing on a ladder inside ?
For this reson I do not intend to fill the whole void I was going to lag the liner with a wrap round jacket that I had seen on the Internet.
I was under the impression that with a log burner you should always fit a liner. ?
So just to recap a have plenty of space to put the register plate way up out of sight as its about 5ft across and about 2.5 ft deep so no problem with access.
Sounds good the bring the liner trough with the joint below. ( will I need to lift the plate/liner up to get the stove flue in position ?)
 
This is melodramatic nonsense. .

This forum is called DIY NOT , the OP is suggesting by his first post he is going to fit it himself and then get Building Reg Part J approval .

I would suggest he DIY`s NOT , as other have on here , and he gets someone in who is HETAS registered .

By your own experience you have said don`t burn wet wood or overside the stove at low rates could cause the problem .

The OP and others may not be aware of this , he is not aware of how to secure the flue and was looking for advice , he may also not be aware about ventilation and its importance .
 
Im looking to fit a log burning stove into a existing chimney (big inglenook)
I have found most of the information I need but I have a question about fitting the register plate some plates advertised are fixed into the chimney with the flue liner fixed to the back of the plate and the solid flue pipe from the fire fixed to the underside..
Others the flue liner is fitted directly to the solid flue pipe with the register plate in two halves then fitted around the flue..
Also most plates have a angle frame fixed to the inside of the chimney with the plate screwed to this others just have a few angle brackets fixed to the plate and you fit in one peace. (I would think this is difficult to seal)
What is the correct thing to do ?
Also should I lag the flexible liner ?

This might be helpful....
//www.diynot.com/forums/building/sandstone-cottage-woodburner-install.289112/#2239431
Some recommend 904 twin wall grade as opposed to the 316. Well it is double the price and has a 25 year gurantee for a start.

I'd be trying to reline with a cementious or clay refractory product which will last hundreds of years and not something to keep those with vested interests in a certain line of work, in work.

Read this and inwardly digest also.....
http://tinyurl.com/728mec3
 

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