Fitting my own flue, does it need insulating

[dsc1970]

Hi all, currently renovating an old cottage and putting in a wood burner. Decided to put the flue in ourselves partly cost and partly lead times.

The chimney is on the gable end of the house and as it is external was wondering if it should be insulated, if so has anyone had experience with the flexible wrap insulation sold by flue suppliers.

I addition was going to go down the route of a cement board register plate rather that galvanised steel?

Also any other advise would be appreciated the chimney is straight up and down with an open top, no pot.

 

[jj4091]

would this help https://www.hetas.co.uk/regulations/

 

[Burnerman]

Make sure you use the correct liner, and of course the terminal on the top of the pot....with a bird guard of course.
Solid flue liners aren’t the same as the gas type.
Some people recommend back filling the void with vermiculite, I’ve never bothered.....the idea being that any residual heat may help keep the chimney dry.
I make register plates from 3mm steel plate, and I fix a hatch to one side of the central hole, big enough to get a vacuum cleaner nozzle in.
This is because there’s always a bit of crap comes down from an old chimney so I can clean it away.
I can also see the connection between the solid flue pipe and flexible liner, which is reassuring.
John

 

[dsc1970]

Thanks guys, I have read the regulations and will comply with those. Just I had heard there may be issues getting the flue to draw if you don't insulate it especially on an outside chimney.

I dont really have the kit to cut 3mm steel plate at the size required, would A1 rated cement board would be sufficient, if absolutely needed I can make up a bespoke steel plate

 

[Burnerman]

Sure, I've seen register plates made from this.
I find it's rather crumbly when fitting into the chimney void as the bricks are often uneven.
You may find a 3mm ply template could save a bit of aggro with the sizing and shape..
Chimney draw can have several factors......the density of the outside air being one, and any known down draught areas. Cowls are available to help here, they work to a certain extent. A smoke tablet set off in the stove can show you what's what to a degree. Once the flue is nicely hot there shouldn't be any issues.
Just a point to ponder.....any wood stove over 5kW requires room ventilation - less than this the natural room draught is deemed sufficient.
Stoves are available with an air inlet at the bottom, which is ducted to outside - a huge benefit in my opinion as a room air appliance can sure cause a draught!
Wishing you well with your project
John

 

[dsc1970]

Thank you John, we have a 5kw clearview stove ready to go and the room already has additional ventilation so should have no issues there. Have building control coming Thursday to do an initial inspection and the weekend will be go go go. Carefully and methodically if course .