Fitting of Vibration sensor and Optima XM6 query...

[Dibbler]

Hi

After we had a burglary I decided to review our security and thought that our perimeter could do with making more secure.
So after fitting a selection of external lights and PIR triggers and then cameras I have now looked at the panelled UPVC back door.

I replaced the bottom back panel several years ago with a 28mm (reinforced with ply but still seems not ideal) panel bought from ebay. The back-door is situated in a secluded area and it is not prone to any external vibrations from traffic etc. So I thought that I would replace the magnetic door contact with one of these...

http://www.safetechsuppliers.co.uk/...cktec-digital-shock-sensor-white-grade-3.html

a Shocktec digital shock detector with magnetic contact.

Piccie of internals....

Shocktec Sensor

• Dibbler
• 1 Nov 2012
• 1

Would I be right in thinking that the magnetic door contact's wiring would go to the Alarm connectors and then the 12v to where it is marked and finally a 12v+ to the LED (which I could take from the 12v + I am feeding the unit..?)...? The tamper I am not bothered with.

In the area we live there have been a number of burglaries over the last few weeks and a neighbour was broken into when they broke through the back door by damaging the bottom panel. Even though the kitchen is protected by a PIR I would sooner detect them on trying to get in rather than when they are in.

The manual for it is here...

http://download.homesecuritystore.com/downloadmanual.aspx?FileName=RK600S00000A_Install.pdf

My old magnetic door contact has been wired (by me) with std 6 core alarm cable and it is fitted to a Optima XM6 Alarm Box. My back door is wired to Zone 2. The manual for the alarm I have uploaded to my Dropbox account...


https://dl.dropbox.com/u/81974590/optima.pdf

albeit mine has six zones and not four as shown in the above manual.

Realising that my old magnetic contact did not require a 12v supply I would like to ask for a little guidance please before I decide to try and fit this myself. Could I take the supply (works between 12v and 16v) from the 13v output terminals shown in the Optima manual...?

I have noticed that zone 2 is also considered a timed / walk zone. This I do not need and it is stated that it can be used as an immediate zone but I do not know how to change that without compromising also zone 1's walk in feature, which is very much needed for the front door entry. Unless it means that zone 2's timed feature would need zone 1 to be triggered first and if it isn't then it will work as an immediate zone..?

EDIT: Just checked and indeed Zone 2 is an immediate one (so that is fine) if Zone 1 has not been triggered first.

Thanks for any advice and sorry for the first post being rather large

 

[chaindaisy]

Yes, you can use your existing alarm pair for the shocker, and supply it with 12 Volts from a spare pair. If it appears dead after setting up, give it a tap with the handle of a screwdriver to bring it to life. Lower door panes are prone to attack so you are smack on in sorting this out. Zone two is called an 'intermediate zone'. (old fashioned term) and will go into alarm immediately if the entry exit route detectors have not been triggered first. You seem to be doing everything correctly from my point of view. Other opinions may differ.

 

[chaindaisy]

If this is part of your normal exit/entry route you should ensure that the shocker is not subject to de-bounce, this will be in your instruction leaflet.

 

[Dibbler]

Thanks for the reply

It does seem that Zone 2 will act as an immediate zone providing that Zone 1 has not been tripped first As Zone 1 is our front door then Zone 2 is acting as it is needed.

I have fitted the unit and it seems fine with the sensor tripping the latch when a bang is given to the door panel. But will turn the LED on the sensor red if it is only a small tap and thus the alarm will not be tripped.

Fitting the magnetic contact in close proximity to the unit though seems to have no effect. This is the only part that seems to be not working and I'm not sure why...?

 

[Dibbler]

I have now wired the magnetic aspect of the sensor in sequence with the vibration part...

Completed Wiring

• Dibbler
• 1 Nov 2012
• 1

if either of the gates are open it will trigger the alarm.

So it seems to work

(big pat on back )

 

[chaindaisy]

Well done Dibbler, and good to see you are looking at the perimeter protection as priority. Pat on the back for you too.

 

[Dibbler]

Thanks for that.

We have installed a series of 230w floodlights in "banks" operated by 180degree PIR's.
With a number of 600TVL Sony CCD cameras and a DVR with 24 hour recording the perimeter is visually more secure.
The internal alarm system and a random timer for a light during the sleeping hours compliments that. But it is the outer perimeter that I have been most concerned with deterring the buggers in the first place

 

[chaindaisy]

yep ! you've got it sewn up alright. You obvously remember the basics of cutting the hedges low (hint ! hint !). You'd be surprised by the number of people who do not give perimeter and externals a second thought. And just as a rider to the last comment, I recently watched a video where a few goons were in and out of a property in about 15 seconds with a few grands worth of antiques. Keep up the good work.