Based on all the good advice I've read on this forum I'm thinking of fitting a room thermostat into my system, which it currently does not have. I have an vented pumped system feeding 7 rads (all with TRVs) with a Drayton LP241 programmer (24hr, 2 programme) running the show. I do not particularly want to chase out the walls to hard wire a unit so I was planning to use an RF unit. Does anyone have any suggestions on a unit or what I need to be looking for to improve my heating control/efficiency?
Fitting room thermostat
- Thread starter Keefa
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I think Brum read you as asking what ELSE...
I think you're asking about which thermostat!
If you're happy with the timimg you have, then you could fit a straightforward radio thermostat such as a Drayton Digistat RF1. around £100. (I've got one you can have for 60.)
But if you want better control, I would suggest a Honeywell CM67RF.
That's a programmable thermostat. At your timer, set the HW when you want but put the CH to Constant or 24 hours. Use the programs on the stat to control the heating, which can be different for every day of the week if you wish, and you can set different temps so you're as warm as you want WHEN you want. E.G., you could set it for 16C at night so the house doesn't get too cool in the depths of winter. There IS a Drayton version, the RF3, but it isn't as flexible and is a pain in the botty to program.
There is an "optimum start" version which should give a bit more economy because it learns how your house responds and times itself accordingly. Very clever but can be disconserting!
I think you're asking about which thermostat!
If you're happy with the timimg you have, then you could fit a straightforward radio thermostat such as a Drayton Digistat RF1. around £100. (I've got one you can have for 60.)
But if you want better control, I would suggest a Honeywell CM67RF.
That's a programmable thermostat. At your timer, set the HW when you want but put the CH to Constant or 24 hours. Use the programs on the stat to control the heating, which can be different for every day of the week if you wish, and you can set different temps so you're as warm as you want WHEN you want. E.G., you could set it for 16C at night so the house doesn't get too cool in the depths of winter. There IS a Drayton version, the RF3, but it isn't as flexible and is a pain in the botty to program.
There is an "optimum start" version which should give a bit more economy because it learns how your house responds and times itself accordingly. Very clever but can be disconserting!
How do these RF room stats link in to the system? Does it matter what programmer is already in place?
These programmable thermostats and especially this 'optimum start' feature sound very clever and suggest that you can make substantial savings on heating bills as well as improved reliability for the boiler etc, but is this really true or just a load of marketing b******t!
Having the 7 day programmer seems handy to save having to change the settings for the weekend, but seeing as the house is generally empty during the day, is it wise to have the heating 'on' all the time?
Having a programmer, programmable room thermostat and TRVs on the rads makes me wonder if these devices will all end up fighting with each other for control....?!
These programmable thermostats and especially this 'optimum start' feature sound very clever and suggest that you can make substantial savings on heating bills as well as improved reliability for the boiler etc, but is this really true or just a load of marketing b******t!
Having the 7 day programmer seems handy to save having to change the settings for the weekend, but seeing as the house is generally empty during the day, is it wise to have the heating 'on' all the time?
Having a programmer, programmable room thermostat and TRVs on the rads makes me wonder if these devices will all end up fighting with each other for control....?!
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The thermostat is wired in series with heating part of the timer, there is a post earlier which gives more detail look for 'thermostat'. I have just fitted a CM67 myself and I think it is excellent. It is not the RF version, but the programmer is basically the same.
Even though the heat is set to constant at the time switch, the program in the thermostat determines when it should come on NOT the timer. With the optimum start there is no set on off periods, you tell the stat i want it to be 20 degress at 4:00pm and it will decide when to fire up the boiler depending upon the ambient temperature, hence leaving the heating set at constant on the time switch.
You can have TRV's but these shouldn't be on the rads in the room that has the thermostat. These rads should have standard valves, or put a lock sheild on each end so that people can't fiddle with them.
Even though the heat is set to constant at the time switch, the program in the thermostat determines when it should come on NOT the timer. With the optimum start there is no set on off periods, you tell the stat i want it to be 20 degress at 4:00pm and it will decide when to fire up the boiler depending upon the ambient temperature, hence leaving the heating set at constant on the time switch.
You can have TRV's but these shouldn't be on the rads in the room that has the thermostat. These rads should have standard valves, or put a lock sheild on each end so that people can't fiddle with them.
Thanks Chris and nstreet.
Talking of TRVs, I have them on all my rads at the moment. Based on what I have heard here, I asked my plumber if I fitted a room stat should I remove the one in that room. He said that was not necessary as long as I open it right up. Is this correct? Is there any difference between no TRV and one which is fully open (i.e. max setting) in this situation?
Talking of TRVs, I have them on all my rads at the moment. Based on what I have heard here, I asked my plumber if I fitted a room stat should I remove the one in that room. He said that was not necessary as long as I open it right up. Is this correct? Is there any difference between no TRV and one which is fully open (i.e. max setting) in this situation?
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Take the trv off the rad in the room with wall stat, put lockshield valves on both ends, fire up boiler and turn off all other rads, check temperature difference on flow and returns at boiler using pipe thermometers and boiler installation instructions, adjust using byepass if fitted and lockshield valves on rad.
Ye continentals keep the trv on the rad where the roomstat is, but adjust it so it closes at a temperature just higher than the stat is set to. The idea is that if you open the doors like everyone and his dog (and cat) does, the hall(say) rad will shut off and not overheat the hall.
Perhaps I've got it wrong or I'm thick - it's never made any sense to me
Perhaps I've got it wrong or I'm thick - it's never made any sense to me
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