FITTING SINK TO WORKTOP - HELP!

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Bit of a 'cockup' with installation of sink into worktop.

Sink has been fitted too close to front edge of worktop which has resulted in me being unable to fit the supplied sink clips! :(

My question is: is there another way to fix the sink to the worktop? Or is the silicone sealant enough on it's own?

This was caused by the new plumbing being fitted first with the taps too far out from the wall. The person fitting the worktops and sink then came in and cut the hole for sink without looking at this first! The sink fits very 'snuggly' into the hole, so there is no movement.

Everything else looks great - worktops, units, etc are perfect, just spoilt by this little problem.

Any advise would be gratefully received!

Stuarto :)


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Is Gripfill an option or would it not work sticking metal to wood?
Just a thought...... :D
 
stuarto said:
Sink has been fitted too close to front edge of worktop which has resulted in me being unable to fit the supplied sink clips!
Is it because the brackets hit the base unit door header underneath?
 
Yes, the clips hit the base unit headers and also the back of the units.

Message to 'moderator' Sorry for posting my topic twice couldn't see it on forum. Have read the notes on posting and will comply.
 
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You will have a problem only if the worktop is wood and it has not been thoroughly sealed. ater WILL get under the silicone. If it's the normal laminate, SANITARY silicone will be fine. Best one to stay clean is the Dow Corning one designed for contact with food.
 
dont know the exact setup of your clips could you not fit longer screws!!!!
 
The clips are from MFI (standard - if there is such thing?) . It's not the screws that are the main problem, it's getting the clips to grip underneath worktop - the base units are in the way front, side and back!
 
If i understand it correctly, could try drilling some holes at the top of the base unit frames where the clips are supposed to be then chiseling out to leave enough room to fit clips underneath.

Should be enough space for doors to open and close underneath once clips tightened and shouldn't see clips or small gaps in base frame with worktop overhang.
 
reply to 'Noodlz' :

Yep, I thought that might turn out to be the only option.

I was just hoping there was an easier solution. Looks like there isn't.

I'm worried about weakening the base units structure when drilling and chiselling out.

Thanks for all the replies so far. ;)

Stuarto.
 
Those sink clips can be fiddler little blighters at best of times, but probably be worth extra effort to ensure sink's secure.

Taking small bits out of frame won't weaken significantly, just be sure to drill enough holes as chiselling (using American chisel before :LOL:) can easily weaken front strip otherwise. Much easier to work if worktop off but may be fitted by now by sounds of it. If concerned about weakness can reinforce sides with 2" x 1"

Good luck ;)
 
You can use silicone without a problem, if you have access to 'G' clamps then use these with a piece of wood between clamp & sink, do not over tighten use sufficient to hold the sink not squeeze it.
Have used this method myself.
 
stuarto said:
I'm worried about weakening the base units structure when drilling and chiselling out.
Providing you drill hole first of a section you want to cut out, then a very sharp chisel. You have to be extra careful on the front door header as they are bendable, so might be easier to use longer screw to put the bracket under the header bar as been mention.
 
Use silicone sanitary sealer under the sink edges and wedge a peice of 3x2 from ceiling to anothe peice of timber across the sink, remove excess mastic,leave overnight and hey presto one fixed sink.
 
Thanks to all those who replied to my query - much appreciated.

I will give it a go tomorrow - got to watch Chelsea v Arsenal tonight!

Thanks,

Stuarto :D
 

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