fitting spindles and new post tops

[marsaday]

How easy is it to fit a staircase.

i am getting the 2 flights made and these will be fitted with the base newel posts.

i then have to fit the rerst of the newel and the base and rails and the spindles.

Can i do this is i am a competent diyer (am doing my attic conversion myself). what special equipment do i need ?

any links to fitting one out ?

 

[misterhelpful]

Not complicated really
http://www.stairplanning.co.uk/stair_terminology/index.html

Some tips here for basics and tools
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Good-Idea-Leaflets/Stairparts/pcat/30stairparts

 

[pompeyal]

I posted this for someone a while ago and there should be some tips within it :-

Richard Burbidge does a very good range of stair newels, spindles and rails, The last set I fitted for a friend of mine was to replace square newels and boarded rails with turned newels and spindles, the old newels were cut off square at the same height as a standard newel base and the centre was marked and drilled with the drill purchased with the new parts. Ask your supplier for the correct one. Then you can chamfer the edges. The new newel post had an integral split tapered turning at the base with a hole through its centre to take the tapered dowel from the underside. The hole in the old newel base needs to be drilled slightly deeper than the length of the turning on the base of the new newel post, the tapered dowel is then cut to length, this is determined by the depth of your hole and the amount the dowel needs to pertrude into the base of the newel post so that when fitted it opens the base of the post enough to fit tight into the hole. Once this has been set up, glue needs to be coated around the turning at the bottom of the newel post and also onto the dowel, the dowel is then placed into the hole in the bottom of the newel post so that it just holds there, then the post is placed into the hole of the newel base and carefully hit down into the hole. when the post comes to near the bottom of the hole, the dowel has already hit bottom and is then forced up into the post so as to open the bottom out forcing it against the newel base. you need to be precise with the measurements or one of 2 things can happen....1) the dowel is too short and does not open the bottom of the post out enough to clamp it in the hole or ...2) the dowel is too long so when the post is hit down the dowel opens the bottom of the post too early not allowing the post to complete its travel into the base. Be careful when fitting the newel to ensure the square top is in line with the base because it will never turn after fitted. You will have to do this for each post replacement. Then it is just the case of fitting the hand rail and spindles as per the instructions so to comply with regulations.

Tooling will depend on your budget but you will need a mitre saw either hand or powered, a carpenters mallet, a drill and bits, a hammer, a level, a screw driver to suit the fixings required, a bevel and a tape measure.

See here :- http://www.stairplanner.com/

 

[marsaday]

i have been looking into it and i think i can give it a go. it is 2 straight flights going up to a half landing and then up again.

questions:

how many screws to you use to screw the case to the bottom and the top ?

plus do you screw into the wall at the side ?

also where to you get the fillets from which go in between the spindles ?

thanks

 

[pompeyal]

When I fitted my staircase I only screwed it to the wall at the side using Fischer screws, the case supported at the top by the strings which were notched. For a full length case I used probably only 6, it depends on how good the fix is. The fillets usually come with the hand rail and base rail if you get from the Burbidge range. Ask your supplier to supply them.

 

[misterhelpful]

The fillets come as one long strip slotted into the hand and base rails so you can cut and mitre them to the required length and angle.

Try to screw/bolt through the strings on the underside of the stairs, though sometimes you may need to put a few fixings on the topside.

 

[marsaday]

hi pompeyal

i see so does the staircase just sit in place. or do you have to jiggle it around to get it to fit.

 

[pompeyal]

I sat the stair case in place, adjusted it so the stairs were level and square to the landing, packed out the string where the screws were to be placed, drilled and fitted the Fischer screws and tightened.

Packers could be used if the floor is not level under either one of the strings. I wouldn't cut the base of the strings to suit the floor unless the stair treads are out of level and high at the nose, if they are low at the nose you would have to pack.

If the cases have been made correctly then very little adjustment should be required, if there is then there may be a fault with the case.

Ensure before you fit any of the stair furnature make sure each case is firm and do not move when walking up them.

 

[marsaday]

ok thanks.

our hall floor falls away quite a bit where the first set will sit. so i imagine there will need to be a bit of packing here.

 

[pompeyal]

Can i do this is i am a competent diyer (am doing my attic conversion myself). what special equipment do i need ?

any links to fitting one out ?

Do you live in a bungalow or house? Fire regulations differ for each.

Have you submitted plans and gained the necessary permissions?

Lots of things need to be considered which will become apparent along the way, without knowing what you are after it would be difficult to tie things down with respect to fitting it out.

You will need a good skill saw, level, hand saw and hammer as basics.

 

[marsaday]

yes mate all done properly.