Fix wood baton to wall to support base units in kitchen?

[damson]

Hello

I'm about to install base kitchen units and have worked out that it's going to be easier to keep them all level if I rest the back edges on a baton fixed to the wall. (I had planned to use legs for each corner of each unit but as the floor is very uneven I think the baton is going to be easier).

The house is Victorian and there is no skirting board but crumbly, dusty mortar/plaster - how do I best fix a board into this material? It's an internal wall so behind the mortar is lathe and plaster only. Should I dig it away until I find the upright posts and fix to that or is there a simpler, less messy/destructive method?

Thanks for any and all advice!

 

[^woody^]

Base units have to be supported off the floor - I can't see how you can just hang them off a wall batten?

The adjustable legs take about 30 seconds to level up and are designed for uneven floors, so I cant see the problem

 

[damson]

Thanks for the reply Woody - the Ikea instructions suggest hanging the back of the units off a baton / plank fixed to the wall - the front of each unit has its own leg in their diagram. Does that make more sense or should I still use 4 legs for each unit?

thanks again

 

[spooky_b329]

I'm about to order a kitchen, we are using wall units as base units on one side as our kitchen is so narrow, so I asked about getting some extra feet as the wall units don't come with them. He said it was easier and cheaper just to build a wooden framework underneath, not fixed to the wall but just a box section thing screwed to the units. Think I'm going to use half the legs for the front of the 'wall' units so the plinth can still clip on easily, and the framework for the rear of both units.

IKEA kitchens are different to most as they don't have a void at the back for your pipework etc, maybe this is why they suggest a batten on the wall.

 

[^woody^]

Thanks for the reply Woody - the Ikea instructions suggest hanging the back of the units off a baton / plank fixed to the wall - the front of each unit has its own leg in their diagram. Does that make more sense or should I still use 4 legs for each unit?

thanks again

I'm not familiar with the ikea design, but you could just fit a batten for alignment, but I would not rely on it for 'hanging' base units. Unless, if the batten runs under the base of the unit, then I suppose it could replace the rear two legs

It sounds like you have a stud partition, in which case you could locate the vertical timbers (likely to be 16" centres) - this would be the best thing to do, or just use some hollow wall fixings/toggles.

But be careful as the batten will follow the plaster, and so if you fix units directly to it, then the fronts may not align properly - so check and pack out as required. Same concept for height too.

Use a good straight piece of planed timber, and mark a dead straight and level line on the wall to avoid the top of the timber waving up or down

 

[foxhole]

If you push the units out with a baton the 600mmm worktop will not be deep enough to cover correctly.

 

[^woody^]

Yes, I was wondering if the units fit up against the batten, or if they fit on it and flush to the wall?

 

[damson]

hi all

thanks again for your thoughts

from the ikea instructions the units appear to sit on the batten rather than being screwed into it (which kinda makes senses from a gravity perspective I guess). I've found the uprights and am going to try to screw into those using really long screws - I'm taking note of the need to pack out the baton so that it sits level and true. If it doesn't work I will revert to the legs option! Wish me luck!

thanks again

 

[damson]

thanks again for all the advice - just to let you know - screwing through the batten into the uprights worked a treat! Solid as a rock!

thanks again