fixing a wall hung WC frame to thermalite block?

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can anyone recommend the best way to fix the steel frame back to a dot & dab plasterboarded blockwork wall?

cheers

:)
 
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can anyone recommend the best way to fix the steel frame back to a dot & dab plasterboarded blockwork wall?
I had the same problem hanging wall mounted cupboards to hold our "best" dinner and tea service, glasses etc.

I eventually used the largest possible screws which would go about 50mm into the blockwork, i.e 75-100mm long. I used long rawplugs which I drove in so they were flush with the face of the plaster board and also went into the blockwork. Three years later nothing has fallen of the wall!

Don't forget that any load being carried by the plasterboard is being supported by the height of the board below the frame and not by the thickness of the board. The board will be in compression vertically.
 
thanks for the reply

[Don't forget ...The board will be in compression vertically.

the frame sits on the floor and fastened back to the wall at the top, the cantilever of the WC would have the effect of putting the top fastenings in tension - pulling out of the wall hence my concern

i was thinking rawl or fisher bolts /studs but i've no experiance of them so if any one has done it before?...

:)
 
the frame sits on the floor and fastened back to the wall at the top, the cantilever of the WC would have the effect of putting the top fastenings in tension - pulling out of the wall hence my concern
Just cottoned on - you are talking about toilets! I must have been half asleep when I wrote my reply as I was thinking of boiler mounting frames.

It's not just the cantilever effect of the WC but the effect of someone sitting on the toilet which must be taken into account. Rawl/Fisher bolts should be OK but you will have to put a spacer on them so that when you tighten them the plasterboard is not compressed.

I have realized after I downloaded the diagram that the spacer needs to go through the frame, so the bolt head is in contact with the spacer and consequently the rest of the rawlbolt.

View media item 6385
 
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Brace it between two internal walls? Otherwise, whats on the other side of the wall? If its a party wall you could always ask if you could put a couple 300mm studs thru. It could be pretty embarrassing if someone pulled the wall down whilst on the throne though. :eek:
 
cheers for the replies guys

I haven't yet bought the WC and frame so i'm testing the water to iron out any potential problems before they arise

I've just looked at a pic on a web site of a frame and there seems to be 8-10 or so fixings and not the two into the floor and two at the top i had assumed

a01wchighframe.jpg


with this info and your advice I am a lot more confident the toilet will hold me (6'3" and NOT built like Peter Crouch!)

the installation will be carried out with the aid of overkill - although it's going on an outside wall, i don't think I'll be drilling a hole through the wall and tying it back to a fence post! ;) :LOL:
 
I think I'll need to shop carefully as what i described above is available too...


890040000xl.jpg.jpg
 
Ignore the plasterboard - just drill clearance holes in it so that you can put strong fixings into the blockwork.

They don't need to be as strong as you imagine - most of the weight is taken by the flooring. For this reason it's best to put some effort into making the floor really rigid.
 
thanks - so that's 4x2 going between the joists then

:)
 

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