Fixing stairgarte to plasterboard

[GilesClapham]

Hi,
I've got a problem, I've got a stairgate at the foot of my stairs. The hinge is secured into woodwork and the catch is secured into plasterboard. And I use the word secured mistakenly.
First I tried the raw plugs provided, these pulled straight out, I tried heavy duty ray plugs designed for plaster board, straight out leaving gaping holes. More recently I tried zinc selfdrive rawplugs but even these couldn't just pull straight out leaving massive holes.
Now I must stress all the catch does is stop the stair gate from swinging open and my baby hasn't "tested" it.
I've got exactly the same stair gate and configuration at the top of the stairs and no problems at all (using the raw plugs provided).
So is there anything on the market that is going to secure the catch on what I think is substandard plasterboard.
Second question, as the wall now looks like swiss cheese what is the best way of filling the holes substantially?

 

[NickB_99]

I've got a problem, I've got a stairgate at the foot of my stairs. The hinge is secured into woodwork and the catch is secured into plasterboard. And I use the word secured mistakenly.
First I tried the raw plugs provided, these pulled straight out, I tried heavy duty ray plugs designed for plaster board, straight out leaving gaping holes. More recently I tried zinc selfdrive rawplugs but even these couldn't just pull straight out leaving massive holes.
Now I must stress all the catch does is stop the stair gate from swinging open and my baby hasn't "tested" it.
I've got exactly the same stair gate and configuration at the top of the stairs and no problems at all (using the raw plugs provided).
So is there anything on the market that is going to secure the catch on what I think is substandard plasterboard.
Second question, as the wall now looks like swiss cheese what is the best way of filling the holes substantially?

Hi. I'm assuming the problem you have is at the catch end only and the hinge end secured into the wood is fine.

Behind the plasterboard downstairs, where you've tried fixing the catch, is there brick?
I.e. is the plasterboard stuck onto brick or blocks (called drylining) or is it just plasterboard supported on a timber frame (stud wall) ?

Maybe a pic would also help to show how bad the damage is and for recommending most suitable tidy up.

 

[GilesClapham]

Thanks for the reply, first of all you're right it's just the catch and the hinge is attached firmly in to woodwork. There is some brickwork an inch further back from the plaster board, I've found that it's too far back for the fixings I've been using though. I'm sure a more experienced DIYer can advise otherwise though.
I've placed a photo of the damage my attempts have left. Working from the top and going clockwise we have the damage caused by the zinc self driving, then the normal rawlplugs (filled) and then the heavy duty rawlplug.
View media item 36125

 

[stevethespreader]

Thanks for the reply, first of all you're right it's just the catch and the hinge is attached firmly in to woodwork. There is some brickwork an inch further back from the plaster board, I've found that it's too far back for the fixings I've been using though. I'm sure a more experienced DIYer can advise otherwise though.
I've placed a photo of the damage my attempts have left. Working from the top and going clockwise we have the damage caused by the zinc self driving, then the normal rawlplugs (filled) and then the heavy duty rawlplug.
View media item 36125

i would cut the damaged area of the board out into a square then insert a noggin onto the brickwork (a peice of wood with screws) this noggin will be your fixing point for your stair gate, then i would patch the plasterboard by cutting a piece of plasterboard just bigger than the patch "in one direction" and slot it behind the patch with some plaster addy to hold it in place, (hold this in place with a screw or piece of string until the addy is firm then fill patch with bonding or easifill then screw in your stairgate to the new fixing point
and paint, job done.
this reminds me of a new build block of flats i was on they had plasterboarded a 5 story stairwell only to find out they forgot to put the fixing noggins in for the hand rail, they had to cut holes all the way up 5 floors and put noggins in then i had to patch up

 

[NickB_99]

There is some brickwork an inch further back from the plaster board, I've found that it's too far back for the fixings I've been using though.

The fact you have brickwork behind will make it easier. I suspected there would be - new builds tend to be stud walls upstairs (on internal walls) and drylined blocks downstairs.

Firstly, Steve's solution will work well and if you have the bits or are happy to get them then go for it.

The only other suggestion (less-ideal) I have depends on what you have 'kicking about' at home. Bits of plasterboard, bonding, drywall adhesive, easy-fill tend not to be standard issue DIY things. If you have them - great - if not, some other sugestions....
I can imagine Rich C and the other pros rolling their eyes at this point now...
but you could pack the holes with something suitable (in order of preference - bonding, or one coat plaster, or if you have to polyfilla). The DIY 'poly' products are not as good, but generally are the things people readily have at home. If using a plaster, will probably need a surface filler after it has set to get a smooth finish (easyfill or polyfilla).
Let this harden/set and then sand/paint as appropriate.

Then have another go at drilling, but this time ensure that you go in a suitable distance to get to the brick/block. You would use your masonry drill without the hammer action whilst you go through the softer plaster/filler and only turn on hammer action when you get to the blocks. This can reduce it skipping about and you get your holes where you want.
You prob want the brown rawplugs with a decent screw or even use something longer, such as a frame fixing e.g. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scr...ings/Frame+Fixing+8+x+100mm/d90/sd1950/p13305
I prefer the screw-in rather than the hammer-in type fixings, as it's more secure.
Good luck!

 

[GilesClapham]

Guys, thanks very much. I'll get cracking.

 

[keenedge]

Buy Dryline Pro fixings, they are the easiest fixing for dot and dab walls.`