Fixing to steel SIP panels

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I've bought a steel SIP garden room from https://www.insulatedpanelstore.co.uk/ and want to batten and board it inside. My question is, what fixings should I use to fix to the steel skin SIP panels? The supplier said they used wood screws but I'm not convinced. Steel battens? Grip fill? Special fixings? I'd value your input...
 
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So I can recess wall sockets and run wiring without surface mounting it. Also, so that I can put downlighters in the ceiling.
 
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OK so theses are just standard SIP panels, made by Kingspan but metal lined each side designed for use in commercial settings eg warehouses and the like, they are absolutely not designed to be used for domestic situations where a lining needs to be added internally. The sellers are utilising a product not designed for the job, nothing wrong per se with what they're doing but not really a suitable product for outbuildings to be used as habitable spaces IMO. Normally they would be fixed to an internal steel structure with screws going all the way through with any external lightweight weatherproofing flashings and the like fitted to the outer metal panel with Tek screws or similar (self tapping steel screws). Fine for flashings but the metal is so thin they're not really designed to cope with much, probably be OK but just a bit crap IMO. I would go with vertical timber battens and plasterboard, fix the battens with plenty of Tek screws.
 
Thanks for that, will do. I guess as the Insulated Panel Store is a Kingspan company they're innovating and I can't blame them for that. I'll be sure to post a review and I really appreciate the advice.
 
I believe that the liner sheet of those SIP panels is only 0.5mm thick. Screw fixings which only go into the liner sheet will pull out fairly easily.
 
I believe that the liner sheet of those SIP panels is only 0.5mm thick. Screw fixings which only go into the liner sheet will pull out fairly easily.
They certainly will, he'll have to use them at close centres and a very low torque setting. They're innovating as the OP's says but all at the end users expense.
 
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Ok, pop rivets sound like a plan (and that's what their kit uses for fixing other trims and so on around the rest of the kit). I guess I'd need to countersink the rivets or is plasterboard not that sensitive to an uneven surface?

The rationale for this choice over others for me is the look (I think timber clad buildings are a bit ugly), the lack of maintenance required (don't want to be painting/oiling all the time and the ease of construction. Time will tell, I guess.
 
I can't see that pop rivets (or any other fixings) are going to take the weight of plasterboard on the ceiling. The 0.5mm liner on those SIP panels is designed as a wipe clean decorative finish, it isn't designed to be weight bearing. I would look at alternatives to recessed lighting and sockets.
 
I can't see that pop rivets (or any other fixings) are going to take the weight of plasterboard on the ceiling. The 0.5mm liner on those SIP panels is designed as a wipe clean decorative finish, it isn't designed to be weight bearing. I would look at alternatives to recessed lighting and sockets.
Why would you pop rivet plasterboard...you would pop rivet surface mount fittings
 
He said he wanted downlighters, ergo a plasterboard ceiling within which to recess them. At least that's what I'd assume by downlighters. He also wanted a cavity behind his plasterboard walls, these glorified sheds are so impractical.
 

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