Fixing wall units
- Thread starter solo
- Start date
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imamartian
If this were me - and i am only a DIYer, NOT a professional.... i would cut a horizontal strip out of the plasterboard at the top of the units and across their full width. And then fix a timber batter securely to the blocks.
And then use this to fix the units to.
And then use this to fix the units to.
Ok first remember between the board and the breeze you have your adhesive(dot and dab) your talking about a few mill.
So you will need a masonary bit,straight through board and into breeze block , you need to drill a good depth.get some decent plugs preferably with a 3 mil flange to sit flush with board.drill in at least 75 mil. the number of fixings is important don.t scrimp.
good luck.
So you will need a masonary bit,straight through board and into breeze block , you need to drill a good depth.get some decent plugs preferably with a 3 mil flange to sit flush with board.drill in at least 75 mil. the number of fixings is important don.t scrimp.
good luck.
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Personally, I use 100mm x 5.0 screws with brown rawlplugs - 7mm drill.
This should ensure you get a good 60mm fix in the block (15mm board + skim - 25mm cavity = 50mm solid fix), but be careful, some "breeze blocks" have hollow centres 30mm from the face, and can be a real pain to achieve a fix.
A test hole is or two well away from your bracket location is always a good start, anywhere behind the intended wall cab location will be obscured anyway so it's a free go.
Drill holes, insert brown rawlys flush with board, insert screw into rawly, tap in 50mm with hammer, remove screw, offer up bracket, reinsert screw through bracket, pull up screw.
NB don't pull screw up too much as the board will pull into wall and warp, that will make hanging your cab flush with the wall a little tricky.
This should ensure you get a good 60mm fix in the block (15mm board + skim - 25mm cavity = 50mm solid fix), but be careful, some "breeze blocks" have hollow centres 30mm from the face, and can be a real pain to achieve a fix.
A test hole is or two well away from your bracket location is always a good start, anywhere behind the intended wall cab location will be obscured anyway so it's a free go.
Drill holes, insert brown rawlys flush with board, insert screw into rawly, tap in 50mm with hammer, remove screw, offer up bracket, reinsert screw through bracket, pull up screw.
NB don't pull screw up too much as the board will pull into wall and warp, that will make hanging your cab flush with the wall a little tricky.
Solo - 2 issues really, the plasterboard can't form part of the support solution for kitchen cabinets and the load needs to be spread in the breeze blocks. It's no use just plugging & screwing the support brackets on 'cos the plugs may eventually pull-out. For fixing into the breeze use sleeve anchors, similar to these:
www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=45137&id=19292
To spread the load do as one of the posters has suggested, namely, cut a patch out of the plasterboard through which you Gripfill and anchor (sleeve anchors) a timber/or ply plate; it's into this that you screw the cabinet support plates.
Another great little fixing for bridging gaps is:
www.universalspacerscrew.moonfruit.com/
but I wouldn't use it to hang wall cupboards.
www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=45137&id=19292
To spread the load do as one of the posters has suggested, namely, cut a patch out of the plasterboard through which you Gripfill and anchor (sleeve anchors) a timber/or ply plate; it's into this that you screw the cabinet support plates.
Another great little fixing for bridging gaps is:
www.universalspacerscrew.moonfruit.com/
but I wouldn't use it to hang wall cupboards.
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