Fixings into thermalite for 31kg radiator (empty)

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Can anyone advise on the best fixings to use to hang the following radiator please ?

Its a Stelrad 800x600 K2 radiator with a weight of 31KG
I assume this is empty weight, not when full of water so obviously the weight will increase

The wall in my extension is plasterboard, dabbed onto thermalite blocks from memory when i remember the building work happening
I've chopped out a hole and can confirm the distance from the front of the plasterboard (which is ~15mm thick) to the front of the thermalite block is 25mm, so there is 10mm of cavity/dabbed adhesive
The radiator has 2 brackets to hang off

Any thoughts on what would be best to use please as the blocks, the cavity and weight of the radiator is worrying me ?

TIA
 
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I've got a row of kitchen wall cabinets hanging on a thermalite wall.

I used 8mm Fischer duoplugs with 80mm screws on a batten every 150mm.

I cut a gap in the plasterboard so the batten was flush, and glued it in place as well, painted to match the wall.

They've not moved since
 
Long screws and long wall plugs.
Or even fixings specifically designed for dot/dab wall use. 100mm or 120mm long Corefix, perhaps?

A 600mm high Stelrad K2 is 35kg per metre length and 6.6 litres of water per meter length from a brochure I have. A litre weighs 1kg. 41.6*0.8 = 33.28 kg. It's really not that heavy. Put in extra screws if you wish.
 
Can anyone advise on the best fixings to use to hang the following radiator please ?

Its a Stelrad 800x600 K2 radiator with a weight of 31KG
I assume this is empty weight, not when full of water so obviously the weight will increase

The wall in my extension is plasterboard, dabbed onto thermalite blocks from memory when i remember the building work happening
I've chopped out a hole and can confirm the distance from the front of the plasterboard (which is ~15mm thick) to the front of the thermalite block is 25mm, so there is 10mm of cavity/dabbed adhesive
The radiator has 2 brackets to hang off

Any thoughts on what would be best to use please as the blocks, the cavity and weight of the radiator is worrying me ?

TIA
Standard plug and screw. Don't drill on hammer. Add some decent polymer adhesive to the backs of the rad brackets, before tightening the screws.
 
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Long screws and long wall plugs.
Or even fixings specifically designed for dot/dab wall use. 100mm or 120mm long Corefix, perhaps?

A 600mm high Stelrad K2 is 35kg per metre length and 6.6 litres of water per meter length from a brochure I have. A litre weighs 1kg. 41.6*0.8 = 33.28 kg. It's really not that heavy. Put in extra screws if you wish.
Thanks @Rodders53

I’ve not seen those corefix before so may give them a twirl
 
An advantage of Corefix is that on dot and dab, they won't pull the plasterboard in as you tighten the screw and the metal collar helps to distribute the load from the blockwork through the plasterboard. I used them last year, for the first time, to put up rack shelving in my thermolite garage with battened plasterboard. Of the 20-30 screws, only 2 span as I tightened them.
 
An advantage of Corefix is that on dot and dab, they won't pull the plasterboard in as you tighten the screw and the metal collar helps to distribute the load from the blockwork through the plasterboard. I used them last year, for the first time, to put up rack shelving in my thermolite garage with battened plasterboard. Of the 20-30 screws, only 2 span as I tightened them.
Thanks for the reply @opps but you say :
“Only 2 span as I tightened them”

Can you confirm what you mean, please?
Do you mean that the plugs didn’t take and grip?
 
Thanks for the reply @opps but you say :
“Only 2 span as I tightened them”

Can you confirm what you mean, please?
Do you mean that the plugs didn’t take and grip?

Yeah, 2 of the fixings had screws that would not tighten properly. I guess that it might have been the edge of a block where it meets the mortar. I guess I could have hammered in a small wooden wedge, but I couldn't be bothered as I had used more screws than I needed to.
 
I've got a load to fix, on turbo blocks which are even worse.

I've practiced on a door stop. Cut out a bit of plasterboard, glue (stixall) and screw (4 brown plugs - very carefully tightened, you normally get one go where it will grip) a piece of 18mm plywood, replace plasterboard. Seems pretty secure.

I had to chase a bit of the block out to fit the plywood but easier enough with multi tool.

IMG_20240723_094123750.jpg
 

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