fixings recommendation for dry lined walls - kitchen units

[danlightbulb]

Hi all,

Am starting a kitchen refit soon. The walls are drylined and so I have been on the lookout for the best fixings for the wall units. Obviously I need something that will take the weight. I have never found the butterfly type fixings (the ones that are sprung wings and open up behind the plasterboard) very easy to use and would prefer an alternative.

Cheers
Dan

 

[neds]

Most of the specific drywall plugs you get which you screw in then screw in a screw into that are not really designed to hold much weight, certainly not a kitchen unit laden with baked beans. Depending how many studs and how far between they are you may be better off sticking a batten behind the plasterboard and screwing into that.

 

[danlightbulb]

Hi, thanks for your reply.

Its not a stud wall its plasterboard on top of brick with plasterboard adhesive. I don't know at the moment what depth of cavity is between the board and the wall.

 

[neds]

Ah OK well you got some hope then. Can you not just use some extra long screws and regular wall plugs? I doubt the cavity depth is anything more that 2-2 1/2" thick. In which case some 10x4" screws should work OK. Just drill a long hole and pack a couple of brown plugs in. Or in the extremes could use long frame screws?

 

[noseall]

i agree, longer screws or adequate length screws.

dabbed and skimmed plasterboard turns out at around 25mm thick.

if the material you are fixing through is say 25mm thick to then something like 85mm screws will do.

you will only need one plug per hole.

 

[awbcm]

This method will distribute the load more evenly while using the the above method of long screws.

 

[Paul5152]

Sorry to piggy-back onto this thread, but my question is closely related to this.

I have a block wall with plasterboard over it and want to hang kitchen cupboards off it. The plasterboard isn't glued directly to the wall, but is on battens (not big enough to hold any load IMO) . So, from the front of the plasterboard to the wall is about 2-2 1/2 inches.

I've tried those "heavy duty" steel 'butterfly' bolts onto the plasterboard (they claim they're suitable for kitchen cabinets), and, to be honest, I don't think I'd trust an empty cabinet to them, never mind a full one...

I had thought about getting some long screws, but then I'm worried about the leverage - ISTM the strain on the screws/wall will be more because of the 2 1/2 inch lever not supported by anything (except feeble plasterboard).

The other option would be to get long screws, and also chop out a chunk of plasterboard and put some 2 inch thick bits of wood between the block wall and the unit, possibly with some extra screws in. (Obviously this will make things harder if we decide to change the kitchen again in the future, and remove the units, but we can cross that bridge when we come to it).

Any thoughts? Am I worrying about nothing, would long screws be OK on their own?

 

[rampump]

I've had a similar problem, not with kitchen cabinets but with Spur-type shelving uprights which have a very heavy load.

Considered long screws and various other fixings - in the end out of pure simplicity & strength used Thunderbolts as even the small ones have a solid diameter of 5mm

 

[kilo_4que]

From what I gather it is dot and dabbed and not exactly drylined?

If so the solution is very simple as some of the guys have put it, just use some long screws and make sure you drill through into the brick

Unless Ive missed something about how your walls really are

I have recently fixed a wall unit onto my wall that had been dot and dabbed, strong as hell and can take a right load

 

[d3matt]

When I've put up wall units, I've also run a batten along the bottom edge so the wall unit sits on this too. With the amount of weight you can put in a wall unit (normally full of tinned food or heavy plates), the two top corner mountings never seem sufficient anyway.
Once you've put the pelmet on, you can't see the batten.

 

[kjacko]

I like the idea of the baton across the bottom. It also serves as a level guide when mounting the wall units, something a lot of people do anyway, only to take it off at the end.
My kitchen which i'm about to re-do is in a timber framed house built in the 50s by the canadian air force. So for all intents and purposes it is effectively dry-lined. So i will have this issue when i come to doing it around March time.
I suppose i could chop a square out of the wallboard, baton inside where needed, put the square back, then tape and skim over the walls (i was always going to skim the walls anyway).

 

[Bilioustrumpstaine]

Try these

http://markgrantcables.co.uk/shop/i...ducts_id=126&zenid=569u7ien94p330jiel44rnkfs1

 

[Bilioustrumpstaine]

Bit more about them here

http://www.deltaleigh.co.uk/products10.htm

 

[kjacko]

Holy crapola!! How much?!
£1.22 per fixing?!

If you used 4 per wall cabinet then that could soon mount up.


waits for someone to say "aah, but cheaper than replacing your bone china when it comes crashing down due to inadequte fixings!"


Point taken! Thanks Biliou...etc..etc...

 

[Bilioustrumpstaine]

Holy crapola!! How much?!
£1.22 per fixing?!

If you used 4 per wall cabinet then that could soon mount up.


waits for someone to say "aah, but cheaper than replacing your bone china when it comes crashing down due to inadequte fixings!"


Point taken! Thanks Biliou...etc..etc...

If your cabinets were £5 dearer per unit would you have still bought them ?