Flexible Conduit & Adding A Switch To Low Voltage Lighti

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Can anyone shed a bit of light (excuse the pun) on these couple of questions.

Can ribbed, flexible conduit (screwfix sell a 10m kit) be used outdoors, i need a 2ft piece up the outside of a wall which is permanantly 'out of the sun'. I thought it might be a better way of feeding my wire because there'd be no joints ????

I've got a set of low voltage lights which requires the transformer to be inside, this plug is quite inaccessible and i'd therefore like to put a switch outside just before the distribution to lights, is this possible bearing in mind that this would mean the transformer being permanantly switched on ????

Cheers in advance
 
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curtly said:
Can ribbed, flexible conduit (screwfix sell a 10m kit) be used outdoors, i need a 2ft piece up the outside of a wall which is permanantly 'out of the sun'. I thought it might be a better way of feeding my wire because there'd be no joints ????
That Screwfix conduit is desperately nasty stuff - it's ribbed on the inside too, which makes threading cables a pain in the ***.

I've got a set of low voltage lights which requires the transformer to be inside, this plug is quite inaccessible and i'd therefore like to put a switch outside just before the distribution to lights, is this possible bearing in mind that this would mean the transformer being permanantly switched on ????
Install another socket controlled by a switched FCU that isn't inaccessible.
 
threading cables
The wife can do that job, she can knit fog as well, ;) is it ok for outside though ??

Install another socket controlled by a switched FCU that isn't inaccessible.
back to the wife again, "won't i be able to turn the lights on from the decking ?" :rolleyes:
 
Fused spur on the ring (with 13A fuse), to 16A weather proof switch(http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GW26213.html), to single gang unswitched socket outlet

*thinks*

OOI, is the transformer plug or cable mounted, if its the later, things can be done slightly differently, when I wrote the above, I was thinking of a plug mounted transformer (wall wart)
 
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curtly said:
she can knit fog as well, ;)
Ah, but can she juggle soot?

is it ok for outside though ??
Probably, provided you don't need any particular impact protection.

But I'll bet the glands aren't...

Install another socket controlled by a switched FCU that isn't inaccessible.
back to the wife again, "won't i be able to turn the lights on from the decking ?" :rolleyes:

OK - on the ring, an unswitched FCU, going to 2-way switches, a normal one inside and a Masterseal one outside, supplying a socket inside. More back and forth with wires, though....

Are these LED lights? If not I doubt you'll be able to switch the secondary as the current will be too large.
 
they are led's but i think i'll stick with the inside switch you've described, means 'er indoors' will have to be indoors to switch on, i think its the easier route

cheers
 
Ban...

Masterseal switches are only rated at 10A from what I have seen, so you are going to have to fuse it at below 10A, most likely 5A, as 10A plug fuses are a bit of a rare commodity, then you have got a 13A socket thats fused at 5A...


This one: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GW26213.html is rated at 16A though, might have to go with a grid switch for inside though, as all the normal light switches I can find are rated at 10A http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK4892.html

Might have to use two bits of 2.5mm² T&E though, between the switches, and just leave one of the 4 current carrying cores un-used, unless 2.5mm² 3C&E is available, never seen it myself, possibly could get away with 1.5mm², but it'd probably be tight, and I have something against 1.5mm² on sockets


Sorry, if this doesn't make sense, I'm still not fully 100% recovered from last nights drinking session, it was a good one, which is more than can be said for this morning :oops:
 
Adam_151 said:
Masterseal switches are only rated at 10A from what I have seen, so you are going to have to fuse it at below 10A, most likely 5A, as 10A plug fuses are a bit of a rare commodity, then you have got a 13A socket thats fused at 5A...
So?

GW26213.JPG


Ugh.

is rated at 16A though, might have to go with a grid switch for inside though, as all the normal light switches I can find are rated at 10A http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK4892.html[/QUOTE]
Wouldn't need to mess around like that if it was all 5A fused.

Might have to use two bits of 2.5mm² T&E though, between the switches, and just leave one of the 4 current carrying cores un-used, unless 2.5mm² 3C&E is available, never seen it myself, possibly could get away with 1.5mm², but it'd probably be tight, and I have something against 1.5mm² on sockets
Wouldn't need to mess around like that if it was all 5A fused.


Sorry, if this doesn't make sense, I'm still not fully 100% recovered from last nights drinking session, it was a good one, which is more than can be said for this morning :oops:
How strange - I was out on the lash last night as well. Fortunately I did manage to keep my sensible hat on, and when we got back to the hotel I went to bed, rather than hitting the hotel bar...
 
Adam_151 said:
Masterseal switches are only rated at 10A from what I have seen, so you are going to have to fuse it at below 10A, most likely 5A, as 10A plug fuses are a bit of a rare commodity, then you have got a 13A socket thats fused at 5A...
20A ones exist but you have to buy the enclosures and switch modules seperately and finding a stockist may be tricky
 

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