Flickering 2D lamp

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I've been asked to look at a 2D bathroom light fitting for a friend I will be visiting over Easter. The fitting initially strikes as expected, but flickers randomly whilst lit. Changing the tube and starter have made no difference, but removing the starter once lit stops the flickering.

Maybe the supply voltage is below spec - I can't say. The place is about 150 Miles away, and so far down a Welsh valley they even have to pipe in the sunlight....

I'm just wondering what spares you think would be useful to have to hand.

Do these 2D fittings require a specific starter?

Maybe I should just take a complete spare fitting.....
 
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Yep just swap it out for a high frequency fitting. It'll save allt he messing about.
 
My money is on the starter - I think its the wrong one. I think the clue is that the fitting behaves when you remove it.

Joe Public doesn't appreciate that there is a whole family of starters for different wattages and configurations. Using the wrong one doesnt simply mean that it doesnt work - it can cause it to do al manner of silly things, like re-striking the tube after its been alight for a while.
 
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you may wish to check what fitting he has now if your gonna take one to replace it

If it has a starter then it is more likely a 28 or 38 watt fitting as the 16 watt ones rarely use starters.

Theres always the chance he has fitted the wrong lamp or if it is a 16watt fitting he may possibly have been sold a 4-22 watt series starter which does not actually work with a 16 watt single lamp even though many suppliers think they do.
 
Well, I changed the whole fitting, and now I'm looking at the bits left over. Case and cover - OK...
Old starter - suitable for 28W fitting - OK...
Replacement starter fitted by local handyman - rated 4 - 125W - hmm...
Choke - Marked as 28W as expected - Looks OK...
Old tube - 28 Watt - Bit black at the ends -hmm...
Replacement tube fitted by handyman - Looks OK...

Err... Why does it say 'Suitable for 38 Watt fittings' on the box the new tube came in?...


D'OH!!!
 
Replacement starter fitted by local handyman - rated 4 - 125W - hmm...


the - means it does anything between 4 and 125, more important is the make, that wide range rating indicates a cheap starter to me

Err... Why does it say 'Suitable for 38 Watt fittings' on the box the new tube came in?...
28 watt ones work in most 38 fittings, more so the switch start ones, the current is limited by the choke and wont really cause any problems.
Most 28 watt fittings now come with 24 watt lamps
 
I don't like the "universal" starters, they cant do small lamps any good if they can kick start 125W.
I use 3 types of starter, 4-80W then a 70-125W the last one being the 4-22W series starter.
 
28 watt ones work in most 38 fittings, more so the switch start ones, the current is limited by the choke and wont really cause any problems.
Most 28 watt fittings now come with 24 watt lamps
.... A 28 Watt tube may work in a 38 Watt fitting, but a 38 Watt tube doesn't seem to work very well in a 28 watt fitting.
 
28 watt ones work in most 38 fittings, more so the switch start ones, the current is limited by the choke and wont really cause any problems.

Using a 28w lamp with a 38w choke will prematurely end the lamp's life as the current is not being limited to a sufficient value. If you monitor it in action you will see that the lamp burns extremely hot at the centre and in turn starts to make the lampholder brittle over time.
It is obviously more of a problem on fittings that spend many hours on.
 
A 28 Watt tube may work in a 38 Watt fitting, but a 38 Watt tube doesn't seem to work very well in a 28 watt fitting.


Not something ive tried due to tha availability of 38 watt lamps but
as a 38 watt 2d lamp uses a 36/40 watt 430ma choke, as opposed to a 28 watt lamp which surprisingly only uses a 18/20 watt 320ma choke, i well beleive it.
 

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