Flickering dimmable LED - phillips 2.3W G9

[HawkEye244]

Just bought a new light : https://www.johnlewis.com/john-lewis-contact-touch-task-lamp/p151505?colour=Chrome

It is touch contact light with three light intensity settings. Trouble is the LED is flickering light fukc and I don't know why? Not much experience with LEDS?

this is the bulb : https://www.johnlewis.com/philips-2...ar/p2721463?navAction=jump&_requestid=1327199

 

[EFLImpudence]

Needs a proper bulb

From link

 

[rules&rulers]

Seen them lamps before,they need a halogen or gls bulb,only.
Low energy bulbs will not work properly.

Read the reviews,consider returning it.

 

[HawkEye244]

Bloke on the shop floor said it would. B@stard.

 

[rules&rulers]

Bloke on the shop floor said it would. B@stard

Even better reason to take the bulb back and buy the correct bulb,or return the lamp as well but consider buying a new lamp there.

 

[stillp]

Demand a contribution to your cost of going back to return it. You might get a coffee and cake voucher...

 

[ericmark]

The advert states energy rating A+ to E so since only way to get A+ is a LED bulb then it should have worked, however advert also says dimmable no, and you say it has three settings, so it would seem you have linked to wrong lamp?

 

[ianniann]

The advert states energy rating A+ to E so since only way to get A+ is a LED bulb then it should have worked, however advert also says dimmable no, and you say it has three settings, so it would seem you have linked to wrong lamp?

Dimmable NO would refer to external dimming, which I imagine doesn't work due to the internal "dimming" circuitry. The A+ energy rating is pretty meaningless and apparently just wrong. The blurb explicitly states not compatible with CFL bulbs, and we can infer that it isn't compatible with LEDs either, so not possible to get anything better than about energy rating D (unless you like wildly flickering bulbs that don't last very long). Possibly there are LED bulbs that would work, depending on their internal drivers?

 

[HawkEye244]

No it's the right lamp Eric. We tested this again today and returned the LED for the halogen. Got home and found the halogen to work perfectly well so the blub is not compatible. Woman on the shop floor had trouble understanding or accepting this. All she seemed willing to do was to say that halogens should be removed with a piece of tissue to avoid burning onself, and then repeated this each time we tried to explain the problem. So the lamp works fine but john lewis have learnt nothing.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

All she seemed willing to do was to say that halogens should be removed with a piece of tissue to avoid burning onself

That isn't why you shouldn't touch that sort of lamp with your fingers - you shouldn't do it when it's cold, either.

 

[ianniann]

The tissue is not to prevent you burning yourself. The way to avoid burning yourself is to not handle hot halogen capsules, or other lamps, full stop. It is potentially harmful to the filament, and very harmful to you if the capsule chooses that moment to break.

The real reason for the tissue is to prevent oily fingerprints on the capsule case. These can cause uneven heating and early failure. The filament of a halogen light bulb is constantly evaporating and being re-deposited, and if this doesn't occur evenly over the whole filament it will be weakened. I can't say I've ever noticed dramatically early failures, and I have certainly touched some halogen capsules, but that's the official story ...

 

[ericmark]

Just bought a new light : https://www.johnlewis.com/john-lewis-contact-touch-task-lamp/p151505?colour=Chrome

It is touch contact light with three light intensity settings.

How does it have three light intensity settings without having a dimmer of some sort? It stated dimmer "No" there is also a advert for V-Pro dimmers built into the spec, it also does state "This product should be used with GLS or halogen bulbs. It is not suitable for use with CFL energy efficient bulbs." however it would be hard to get a 12 volt CFL so that makes sense.

Some of the Philips bulbs have a technology built it designed to fox the switch mode power supplies into thinking they are producing the minimum rating, the bulb may have simply not been compatible, or too low a wattage, you can get 6W G9 bulbs, and 5W is common, it could be 2.5W was just not high enough to work.

You however should not fit quartz bulbs to dimmers, as already stated the idea is the quartz is so hot the tungsten from the filament will not be deposited on it, but it will redeposit on the filament, over time the filament thickness will vary until one bit becomes too thin and it ruptures, that is the end of life of the bulb, but if the tungsten is deposited on the quartz that happens a lot faster and the quartz goes black. I have not seen any General Lamp Shape (GLS) bulb with G9 fitting, although you can get covers to make a G9 bulb look like a GLS.

It would seem from what you say the lamp is not fit for purpose?

 

[ianniann]

I already explained what the "dimmer No" might mean. What part are you still struggling with? The light has its own has touch controls to set three different brightness levels, and almost certainly won't work with an external dimmer such as a wall switch dimmer control.

Of course halogen (quartz, does anyone really call them that?) bulbs can be used with dimmers. Happens all the time, works great. The recommendation is to periodically run them at full brightness to avoid the filament ending up on the casing. I can't say I've ever noticed a problem and I run halogen lamps at less than full power almost all the time. They certainly don't fail early. Maybe a tiny effect except at very low dimming levels?

The light looks fine, just the specs are not fit for purpose. Or you might say that these days producing any light that won't operate with an LED inside it is pretty poor form. Halogen capsules are not listed for phase-out yet, but its only a matter of time. Better stock up on replacements

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The real reason for the tissue is to prevent oily fingerprints on the capsule case. These can cause uneven heating and early failure. The filament of a halogen light bulb is constantly evaporating and being re-deposited, and if this doesn't occur evenly over the whole filament it will be weakened. I can't say I've ever noticed dramatically early failures, and I have certainly touched some halogen capsules, but that's the official story ...

No, that's not the reason either.

Yes to the oily deposits causing uneven heatings (and salt corroding the envelope), but the risk is failure of the envelope, not the filament.