Floor tiling issues

[Dave85]

Im just about to tile my bathroom floor, im going to lay 4mm plywood so the floor is a bit stronger. im worried about the hight of of the floor when the job is done due to the fact that the floor in the bathroom goes right into the hall. what options are there for for door bars to give a good finnish and that you dont trip over the tiles as you enter the bathroom.

also do i have to use any kind of sealer on the plywood?

all help appreicated

 

[kevnurse]

If your floor mounted furniture is removed, I would recommend you to completely remove the existing flooring and replace it with 25mm WBP plywood, with noggins centred every 200mm between the joists and screws every 200mm all over the ply. Overboarding the existing floor with 4mm plywood will not provide the degree of rigidity that porcelain tiles require. You will need at least 12mm overboarding, but that presents the type of problem that you have outlined.

Check the sticky above

 

[bathstyle]

I really cannot understand these problems with height issues?

How thick is carpet underlay, how thick is carpet? even cut the underlay back and bang a gripper rod against your threshold.

pop a piece of oak between the tile and the carpet and it is absolutely fine.

I must start taking photos of these thresholds that I do, there really is no great step up.

Agree, 12mm ply for porc or ceramic, Aquapanel glued and screwed for stone. You are more than likely gonna be OK with 25mm ply onto joists but could be problematic if you use a standard single part with no ditra matting. If you do the complete floor with a single sheet of 25mm ply no problems

 

[kevnurse]

Bathstyle, my reading of the OP's post is that his bathroom floor extends (at the same height) into the hall. I believe its the same flooring; probably wood planking/laminate, which is now suffering the effects of water.
He didn't mention anything about floor mounted fixtures, so I guess he is planning to tile around them.

OP: if the fittings are not to be removed, I would recommend top quality vinyl. Your tiles will crack if you do not use a rigid sub floor and tiling around floor mounted fittings doesn't look good and you will have a problem when you want to change the fittings.

 

[bathstyle]

I think we need to hear from the OP with a few more details, agree about the fixutres though, take them out and do it properly or fit vinyl, which IMO is often a better solution yet rarely used by homeowners.

 

[Richard C]

Take some time out to read through the tiling sticky & the Tiling Forum archive threads, what you’re proposing is unlikely to last long.

Given the choice, I always prefer to remove the existing floor & replace with 18-25mm WBP, depending on what I think local circumstance require. It provides a rigid base & doesn’t affect the threshold height unduly.

 

[Dave85]

thanks for all the info so far, just to clear a few things up


the job is at a newly refurbished flat so all the flooring is new like in a new build.

i just wanted to put some ply down to give the floor that extra bit of strength but when i come to finnish at the door i will be left with a big edge. we all know floor tiles a pritty think and with the ply and mix included in the hight this will be rather big.

are there any sort of door bars i could use to hide the exposed tiled edge?


also the toilet will be fully removed before the work has started.

 

[Richard C]

What is the "new" floor made of?

 

[tictic]

6mm backerboards then as been said piece of wood feather edged under carpet..if ur tiling anyroom u will always have height issues mate.