Floorboard removal

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Hi guys, first post asking about a pretty well covered subject so sorry for that!

I have to fit the dreaded LVH downlighters in a friends house. The ceiling is accessible in the bathroom. The electrics side of things are fine, but ive never taken flooring up... i've picked up a flooring chisel and am debating whether to buy a floorboard saw, or a circular saw.

I see screwfix do an extreamly cheap circular saw @£20! :http://www.screwfix.com/prods/38500/Power-Tools/Circular-Saws/Direct-Power-7-Circular-Saw-230V

Is this going to be upto the job or not worth bothering with? I assume you get what you pay for but i am not doing enough to justify a Makita or similar at the moment.

Also i wonder how you get a clean cut from side to side of the board (without cutting into the neighbouring flooring, or not fully cutting the width of the board) when your using a round shaped cutter? If not i can try the handsaw, not sure how easy they are to use on the rounded edge - anyone used one before?

Lastly looking at circular hole cutters from a kit off for £10 to a set for £100 - are the cheap ones any good or do you need to spend more to avoid messy cuts?

Thanks
 
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The best tool is a MultiMaster, a bit expensive - but think of it as an investment. :D
 
You can't end with a vertical cut with a circular saw, so you have to choose whether to cut into the next board or stop at the edge and finish off with a handsaw such as a small tenon saw.

But really important - make sure you only cut the depth of the board because you don't know what's beneath it - pipes and wiring are often laid just below the floor. Depth gauges on cheap saws aren't that accurate so try a test cut on some scrap first.

You will also need to use a piece of wood to run the saw against - cutting freehand isn't easy (or very safe) - double sided tape will stop it moving when you cut.
 
luminaire: might be something to look for in the future but i cant stretch to £170 before ive brought an SDS and a channel chaser!!!

ratter: thanks for the tip, i'll screw a batton down to guide the saw.
 
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for drilling the ceiling, use a decent hole saw.. not one of those with slot in blades.. they tend to rip as they have large gaps in them..

circulars will always cut into the neighbouring boards.. but you get less overspill if you use a smaller blade so a trim saw with a 5 1/2 -6 inch blade will be better than a saw with a 9 inch blade..

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/94395/Power-Tools/Circular-Saws/Titan-Circular-Saw-18V


something like a rotozip or dremel with the right bits can be very usefull..

or if pushed and you have one, then a buscuit joiner might do the job too...
 
The best tool is a MultiMaster, a bit expensive - but think of it as an investment. :D


There is also a cheaper version out of this great piece of kit....


....Made by Bosch. (which, when i last looked - was on offer at £60).


A case of "DIY Vs Professional tool, but just as good, apparently).
 
well i guess one with a dust attatchment would be more friendly, surely it beats a chisel.
 
for drilling the ceiling, use a decent hole saw.. not one of those with slot in blades.. they tend to rip as they have large gaps in them

what do you mean by slot in blades. My dad has this very cheap kit: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/hole-saw-cutt...ameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

...but i was thinking a mid price set like this may be a better bet: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/67717/Drill-Bits/Holesaws/Sets/Erbauer-Electricians-Holesaw-Set-9-Pc#

Its certianly expensive building up a basic set of tools. I think i need a bank loan! Thanks for the advice though guys its invaluable :cool:
 
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Why not use a small circular saw and cut the tounge out 1 or 2 joists wider than you need, then very carefully lift the board and insert a couple of bars underneath to keep it above the level of the floor - if you cut it at this point you will not go into the adjacent floor boards!!
 
Also, that way you can cut it across where the centre of the joist is, which makes replacing the boards easier.
 
I drill a 4mm hole at the edge of the floor board and then use a jig saw with a 45mm fret blade snapped in half to limit the cut to about 20-22mm.

I always run the metal of an earth clamp (3"+ )down the gap either side the floor board cut, which is handy for finding pipes and cable that are in the cut zone.
 
and absolutely no use if the pipe or cable runs directly under the center of the board parallel to it..
 
I know I'm a bit out of touch with re-wires but I wouldn't have thought there are many "virgin" floor boards left?
 

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