flourescent light switch

[slider45]

Just a quickie:
Would this be safe to use as a switch for a set (5) of under counter 10W flourescent tubes?

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?TabID=1&ModuleNo=2363&doy=4m1
Would switch live panel mounted in an earthed steel box. Soldered & insulated terminals.

If not, why not?
Thanks!

 

[Softus]

Would this be safe to use as a switch for a set (5) of under counter 10W flourescent tubes?

It depends on the operating voltage of the lamps, which you haven't stated.

Would switch live panel mounted in an earthed steel box. Soldered & insulated terminals.

Eh?

 

[MR-DIAZ]

Why would you want to use this switch in the first place ???

I ask is it for aesthetics only ????

Not really the kind of thing you´d want switching 230V flos as there´s a 3Amp limit on them i´m guessing it´ll be on a 6A or 10A lighting circuit. You could use it to operate a contactor meaning there relatively on load passing through it. If i was you just stick a normal mains voltage switch in. The answer is it will take 50W even with the start up current of the flos equipment but it´s a bit poo poo if your asking my opinion.

 

[jj4091]

Looking at the spec. I cannot see anything wrong with using it as long as you know how to make it safe.

 

[sm1thson]

under counter

under a kitchen counter? -if yes then i think building control would need to say yeah or nay. -interesting Ive allways wondered how they would look on custom deviations like this!

 

[slider45]

Thanks for your replies guys.
To answer your questions, yes it is mainly for aesthetics and to keep things simple. But if it isn't safe, I'll get a pull cord or something similar.

Tubes are indeed 230v and will be wired via a fused 13a plug (fused at 3amp). Plugged into the ground floor 30a socket ring.

Planning to put a hole in the fascia of the cooker extractor to mount the switch and run another earth to the casing to ensure it is always earthed even when the extractor is unplugged.

The wires between the junction box and the switch will be soldered to the switch to ensure they don't come off. Heat shrink tubing around each terminal & sleeving around both for protection. Wires will enter the extractor via existing (strain relieved) grommet. Plenty of empty space inside the extractor for the wire which will be cable tied to existing cables to keep tidy.

In simple terms - it keeps things pretty & convenient, but if it is unsafe, I'll change things

 

[IJWS15]

An amateur's view

Are you not going to confuse future occupiers over which switch turns off the extractor - somone might try to disassemble a faulty extractor thinking they have turned the power off to it when all they have turned off is the flourescent lights!

 

[securespark]

Not to mention compromise the electrical integrity of the cooker hood (which may be Class II).

I strongly advise you to leave the cooker hood well alone.

 

[JohnD]

A 3A FCU would be simpler and better and can incorporate its own switch.

 

[slider45]

hmm shame.

The tubes themselves come with instructions suggesting to wire up to a 3a plug.
All I wanted to do was add a single switch in a convenient position to control all.

Not to mention compromise the electrical integrity of the cooker hood (which may be Class II).

No its not a class II - casing is clearly marked & earthed internally.

I could add a switched FCU under the counter I supposeperhaps that'd be safer. Could I still keep it wired in using a standard plug or does that go against regs?

Well I've a spark coming to quote for a cooker rewire & new CU in the next fer days. I'll ask for a (simple) solution.

Thanks anyway guys!