Fluke 1653

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8 Oct 2007
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I've recentrly bought a second hand 1653. Couple of things I'm not happy with:

1. The zero function on R-lo setting seems to work intermittently - the instructions say short leads before a test and press the zero button, but this seems to only work sometimes. Other times it "click" as if zeroing, but doesn't actually zero., and the indicator does not show "zero"

2. I know flike crock clips are crap, but even after squeezing i'll get a different reading each time say between 0.3 to 0.5 ohms for the same pair of shorted leads

Anyone had similar experience ? the tester was calibrated 6 months ago.
 
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Yep - they are ****e.

I hate mine, and am putting it on Ebay very soon - Getting a meggar all in one.
 
Make sure you are touching the far points of the tips together and not any part on the sides that spins round etc. and make sure you hold down the zero key until zero lights up on the display

If you have crock clips on, make sure that when you connect them to zero it, that they are orientated such that you arn't zeroing it across the hinges... hope you know what I mean, its hard to describe without a picture!
 
Thanks for tips, but get same "non zeroing" feature even with probes. I've held the button for a good 20 secs - no joy!
 
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Crap I tell ya.

I have had 5 sets of leads for free in the 2yrs I have had this meter.

It looks good, but perfroms crap.

The meggar looks a little dated, but is flawless. We have a couple meggars, and just this one crap fluke......which is going any day soon.
 
And once you have managed to zero the leads for the loop test (which many people dont realise you need to do), you then need to re-zero when you use the plug-type lead.

Seriously, many people zero the leads for continuity, but forget to do it for the loop test. It logs two seperate readings for the two zeros. You need to do it for both!
 
:oops: :oops: :oops:

I did notice the low batt indicator, but thought it shoeuld either finction or not, but having used the batt test function it showed only 5V, having replaced batts, all is now well ! great tester !! :D
 
I like my Megger all in one 2 yrs trouble free except several sets of croc clips as springs seem to get tired/slack.

I still have a clockwork/wind up megger and an AVO mk8 from my student engineer days.

It's funny how 'megger' is synonymous with 'hoover'
 
The Fluke 165x series outsells its competitors three-to-one for a very good reason.

But, it has its flaws.

It won't null with low battery voltage.
You have to null for loop tests.
The supplied croc clips are disastrous.


So:
Buy a decent set of crocs.
Keep the batteries charged up.

and, most of all, RTFQ... Read The ******* Manual
 
I have the 1653, at first I had problems (like every one) with the leads, they sent me a set of leads for free and since than no problems.

I also was confused with the zero function, it seems that when you zero the leads it will not show "0" but the resistance value of the leads, to verify whether it is zero I press the test and it shows zero.

I am very satisfied with this unit, easy to use and does all that you need.
 
Earth loop can take a very long time to complete compared to other testers - This is a real annoyance.

The lead issue is a real pain - And having to zero between using the plug lead and prongs is annoying.

I have had mine go faulty a couple times now with regards RCD testing - It kept failing RCD's that where fine.

I wouldn't get another.
 
Earth loop can take a very long time to complete compared to other testers - This is a real annoyance..
Yes it takes time but when you are waiting it always looks much longer than it really is. There is the option of Loop test using L+N and this is instant.

The lead issue is a real pain - And having to zero between using the plug lead and prongs is annoying..
Agree again but since I got my new set of leads It is OK

I have had mine go faulty a couple times now with regards RCD testing - It kept failing RCD's that where fine.
I am sure that your tester was faulty, I use RCBOs in every sockets outlet circuit (ring and radial) so I use it many times in every installation, I never had problems of tripping when should not.
 
I know you can do an EFL from L to N, putting the N on the E, but this will cause RCD's to trip.

All in all, the meggar is far superior IMO. Has the same features, and the EFL test is much quicker. I have compared this.

Yes, mine was faulty - It has been repaired under warrenty 3 times, the first return to base resulted in a brand new one being sent out. I am on my fourth set of leads, and of two different design types.

So far, this 'maintenance' has cost me nothing financially, but is extremely frustrating.

I am glad some people are finding no problems with theirs - But you wont catch me recommending one.
 

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