Flush mounting of sockets and switches?
- Thread starter royal618
- Start date
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the faceplate will overlap the back box so it will lie flat against the wall, but it will not be flush in the same plane with the wall surface
Thanks Owain. So, should you be able to actually see the plastic part? I can understand the metal sticking out a few mm, but the plastic on show doesn't seem right.
Dont look right, but it does appear they are meant to
Does the front plate come off, a pic from the front with that bit off may be better
what make are they.
The bit on show looks part of the socket, and you say its plastic.
The metal box should be at least flush with the wall and never recessed to take the socket, so I dont feel the backboxes are the problem
Does the front plate come off, a pic from the front with that bit off may be better
what make are they.
The bit on show looks part of the socket, and you say its plastic.
The metal box should be at least flush with the wall and never recessed to take the socket, so I dont feel the backboxes are the problem
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They are screwless plates so the plastic part screws to the back box and sits on top of the finished plasterwork, then the metal front clips in on top of this.
The way they've been done is right, but the plasterwork looks a bit dodgy which is why the right hand side of the switch isn't tight back against the wall.
If you used screwed switch plates they would sit closer to the wall but never actually flush as you'd never get a perfect finish.
The way they've been done is right, but the plasterwork looks a bit dodgy which is why the right hand side of the switch isn't tight back against the wall.
If you used screwed switch plates they would sit closer to the wall but never actually flush as you'd never get a perfect finish.
Glad to hear it. You really need to remove the switch, get the plaster flush to the back box, and refit the the switch. Looks like someone has tried to plaster/fill the wall with the switch still in place, and that will never work.
Also now there's plaster all over the switch plate too.
I've had sockets/switches fitted across the house, and I was thinking that they should actually be flush with the wall as opposed to sitting on top, both the plastic part and the metal part.
Thoughts?
My thoughts are that if it was in my front room I would get it changed...it looks a pig IMHO.
Wouldn't one expect the metal front to have a lip which covered the 'plastic part' - as far as I can make out, what we have been shown could never 'look right'?
Kind Regards, John
All the dry lining boxes I have used have a lip which sits on the surface of the board.
I tend to set this into the plasterboard so it is flush. Would make this situation look much better
I tend to set this into the plasterboard so it is flush. Would make this situation look much better
plus it doesn't look like the faceplate is clipped on properly. It seems to be running away from flush with the underlying box/plate on the left side of the switch
The plastic lip is part of the switch - not the backbox.
That particular design has the plastic edge visible at all times, even when fitted correctly. The metal plate clips onto the plastic part.
The plastic is bent away from the metal plate at one side due to the wall not being level.
They can only be properly fitted on walls which are 100% flat and level, and even then you can still see the plastic edge, and they are not really 'flush' in the true sense.
That particular design has the plastic edge visible at all times, even when fitted correctly. The metal plate clips onto the plastic part.
The plastic is bent away from the metal plate at one side due to the wall not being level.
They can only be properly fitted on walls which are 100% flat and level, and even then you can still see the plastic edge, and they are not really 'flush' in the true sense.
But you can get ones which are just as almost-flush, but not flat plate, where there is nothing but the plate visible when fitted.
I often wonder what other lengths people go to to avoid seeing any screws in their houses....
I often wonder what other lengths people go to to avoid seeing any screws in their houses....
I'd rather have screwed accessories.
I do hate cross head screws though as it's impossible to line them up neatly. All the slotted screws in my lounge do line up now.
IMO other than where they are used in accessories, I think every other screw in the world should be a pozi/philips.
There's nothing worse than a flathead woodscrew. WHY??
There's nothing worse than a flathead woodscrew. WHY??
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